Corner protectors are often a mans best friend when it comes to 90 degree edged loads.
Maybe someone should enlighten this guy on Outback truckers about the merits of a length of 2" x 2" and the above mentioned.
Climbing on and off his flatbed in flip flops, and only 20 kms down the road and already snapped 2 straps!
dri-diddly-iver:
axletramp:
You can use a spare length of 2x2 as a lever to get the ratchets a bit tighter.
Why pull out your guts?
Always find an easier way.
Unless you have 4 stone of pudding belly to help of course. 
axletramp:
dri-diddly-iver:
axletramp:
You can use a spare length of 2x2 as a lever to get the ratchets a bit tighter.
Why pull out your guts?
Always find an easier way.
Unless you have 4 stone of pudding belly to help of course.
I use these pull down ratchets ,much better .
Are you not allowed to use chains anymore ?
Punchy Dan:
axletramp:
dri-diddly-iver:
axletramp:
You can use a spare length of 2x2 as a lever to get the ratchets a bit tighter.
Why pull out your guts?
Always find an easier way.
Unless you have 4 stone of pudding belly to help of course.I use these pull down ratchets ,much better .
That’s a fairly good idea.
axletramp:
Unless you have 4 stone of pudding belly to help of course.
Not at all, you may be surprised 
normal/general hand tight would be sufficient for 5T ratchets & straps. (provided the load is not over that) 
Wait until you get a kick back from the heavy duty pull down ratchets. I know two folk who have been hospitalised with them.
All ratchets are designed with a Standard Hand Force of 50Dan applied to the handle. The label will then tell you how much tension that can create. The length of handle is designed so an average ‘standard hand’ will apply around 50Dan.
A normal cheapie ratchet will be around 300Dan Standard Tension Force with an input of 50Dan whereas most pull down types which normally have longer handles, will produce around 450Dan with the same 50Dan input.
They are not designed to have a greater force applied by using a lever and could easily break teeth off the ratchet or deform the locking plate and therefor come undone. The length of the handle is determined as part of the design.
I remember when I was working as an HGV mechanic a lad was struggling to undo a bolt but was using a short(ish) ratchet. He put a length of tube over the end and promptly ripped the teeth off the gear inside. He couldn’t understand why Snapon wouldn’t repair it free. We opened up the head on one of my ‘long handled ratchets’ - much bigger teeth and components. Everything has a maximum capability and then breaks.
shep532:
If you were using simple ‘over strapping’ then try this calculation to find out how many straps for a 5000Kg load loaded away from the headboard.5000 x 0.8 = 4000
5000 x 0.4 = 2000
4000 - 2000 = 2000350 x 1.5 = 525
525 x 0.4 = 2102000 / 210 = 9.5
9.5 x 1.25 = 11.87Total 12 straps
The above is a simplified version of the BSEN 12195-1:2010 lashing calculation.
If we allowed for 2 ratchets per webbing (one each side which would be the ideal) it’d only be 9 straps.
As for storing the tail end of the strap - if you store it as you described, trapped behind the strap, this can cause a drop in tension during transit.
Of course I’m going to get told this is a load of crap but if anyone wants any of the numbers above explaining - just ask
Yes please, would be interested to know! 
Thanks for sharing that picture. Very handy as I carry IBC tanks on my flatbed, and end up wrapping the excess into the frame of the IBC’s
I’ll change my method to follow suit above
Big Pimp:
Thanks for sharing that picture. Very handy as I carry IBC tanks on my flatbed, and end up wrapping the excess into the frame of the IBC’sI’ll change my method to follow suit above
Normally ok ,but like Shep mentions be careful as when used on a full width load the case changes as a weak load where straps can’t be done too tight risk the excess coming out ,different though on strong full width loads where the straps will stand some pain on .
Suedehead:
Are you not allowed to use chains anymore ?
Blocks from some stone quarries are railway sleeper s and chains only or no load .
shep532:
All ratchets are designed with a Standard Hand Force of 50Dan applied to the handle. The label will then tell you how much tension that can create. The length of handle is designed so an average ‘standard hand’ will apply around 50Dan.A normal cheapie ratchet will be around 300Dan Standard Tension Force with an input of 50Dan whereas most pull down types which normally have longer handles, will produce around 450Dan with the same 50Dan input.
They are not designed to have a greater force applied by using a lever and could easily break teeth off the ratchet or deform the locking plate and therefor come undone. The length of the handle is determined as part of the design.
I remember when I was working as an HGV mechanic a lad was struggling to undo a bolt but was using a short(ish) ratchet. He put a length of tube over the end and promptly ripped the teeth off the gear inside. He couldn’t understand why Snapon wouldn’t repair it free. We opened up the head on one of my ‘long handled ratchets’ - much bigger teeth and components. Everything has a maximum capability and then breaks.
Would a Dan be in some way related to a Rod, Pole or Perch? because it means SFA to me. Kilograms and pounds I can relate to but this unit is meaningless. Typical marketing gobbledigook. 
cav551:
shep532:
All ratchets are designed with a Standard Hand Force of 50Dan applied to the handle. The label will then tell you how much tension that can create. The length of handle is designed so an average ‘standard hand’ will apply around 50Dan.A normal cheapie ratchet will be around 300Dan Standard Tension Force with an input of 50Dan whereas most pull down types which normally have longer handles, will produce around 450Dan with the same 50Dan input.
They are not designed to have a greater force applied by using a lever and could easily break teeth off the ratchet or deform the locking plate and therefor come undone. The length of the handle is determined as part of the design.
I remember when I was working as an HGV mechanic a lad was struggling to undo a bolt but was using a short(ish) ratchet. He put a length of tube over the end and promptly ripped the teeth off the gear inside. He couldn’t understand why Snapon wouldn’t repair it free. We opened up the head on one of my ‘long handled ratchets’ - much bigger teeth and components. Everything has a maximum capability and then breaks.
Would a Dan be in some way related to a Rod, Pole or Perch? because it means SFA to me. Kilograms and pounds I can relate to but this unit is meaningless. Typical marketing gobbledigook.
Hence the saying “Bull ■■■■ baffles brains”.
shep532:
All ratchets are designed with a Standard Hand Force of 50Dan applied to the handle. The label will then tell you how much tension that can create. The length of handle is designed so an average ‘standard hand’ will apply around 50Dan.A normal cheapie ratchet will be around 300Dan Standard Tension Force with an input of 50Dan whereas most pull down types which normally have longer handles, will produce around 450Dan with the same 50Dan input.
They are not designed to have a greater force applied by using a lever and could easily break teeth off the ratchet or deform the locking plate and therefor come undone. The length of the handle is determined as part of the design.
I remember when I was working as an HGV mechanic a lad was struggling to undo a bolt but was using a short(ish) ratchet. He put a length of tube over the end and promptly ripped the teeth off the gear inside. He couldn’t understand why Snapon wouldn’t repair it free. We opened up the head on one of my ‘long handled ratchets’ - much bigger teeth and components. Everything has a maximum capability and then breaks.
A couple of extra clicks with a long bar or chock does no harm at all. Problems only arise when you get drivers using metre long plus ones ratcheting up as much as their strength allows.
Vast majority of drivers at ours all use bars on ratchets.
Wouldn’t it be a case of IF you needed so much tension that you’re using a lever to achieve this, shouldn’t you be thinking of using chains?
When I drove a scaffolders bin/flatbed for a month, I felt I could get the straps tight enough by hand, and would then pullover after a couple of miles to get a few extra clicks as the load settled.
As for stowage of the excess strap, if they were wet you could roll them up and place on the bed under the load, if dry I found the method in the pic was best.
Loading steel the other day with a colleague…he’s heaving on the ratchet with all his strength.
H bar snaps,and he’s flying through the air backwards with a gouge down his shin.
I’m no muscle man, but if you can’t get enough tension on a strap using a hand tightened well lubricated ratchet, either you aren’t doing it right, or you aren’t using the correct form of restraints.
F-reds:
I’m no muscle man, but if you can’t get enough tension on a strap using a hand tightened well lubricated ratchet, either you aren’t doing it right, or you aren’t using the correct form of restraints.
Its not about the initial tension. The tighter you get the strap eliminates the need in the vast majority of cases to stop further up the road.
You get a 5’ fella slightly built vs a 6.6 inch brick out house and a couple of extra clicks is nothing.
ajt:
Its not about the initial tension. The tighter you get the strap eliminates the need in the vast majority of cases to stop further up the road.
Bone idleness then?
It’s lazy, corner cutting ■■■■■ that have killed this job and given rise to all the H&S bull ■■■■ we find ourselves now drowning in.
