I know this may have been asked before, but I can’t find it in past posts, so don’t chew my nuts off if youve already answered this problem.
Woke up at Membury this morning to find my battery did not have enough in it to turn the engine. Had to call out a mechanic to start me.
Does anyone carry one of these 24V booster/chargers around with them, and if so are they any good? I have seen one on e-bay for £60 which is a charger/booster/compressor and am thinking of buying one.
My computer said that my battery was 23.4v this morning so it must have been just under the power needed to turn the engine, so I don’t think the extra boost required would have been too much.
Maybe its no more services - and back to laybys and a 30 minute run of the engine when I turn my TV off!!
The power packs work a treat, i have a 12v one from Halfords and even that is enough to start a truck that is only just flat. Plus its got a 300w inverter in it too.
They’re definately worth having but aren’t a decent set of jump leads a cheaper, easier option? Maybe even pick some up in the workshop 
zebadee:
They’re definately worth having but aren’t a decent set of jump leads a cheaper, easier option? Maybe even pick some up in the workshop
Be very careful using jump leads, most new trucks run everything through a very expensive computerised management system, a surge of power like you get when you jump a truck can do irepairable damage. If you do have to revert to jumping your truck make sure you have the headlights on mainbeam. Just thought I would help here but truck mechs should be able to tell you if I am right. 
just to carry on a little for what little einus has said
if you do jumpstart the truck with jumpleads then make sure you turn as much as on as you can after starting the truck that means hi beam heater nightheater etc on both trucks BEFORE removing any of the jump leads.
the reason for this is that when you breack the circut (remove either or both jump leads) then the alternator will take ove the charging system, its when this happens that ecu’s get blown due to the power spike of the alternator kicking in.
alternativley if you think the batteires may be week then run the truck for 20mins on a slightly higher than normal tick over
first frosty morn n dead batteries.3 of our motors wouldnt start this mornin…new batteries all round! 
Have been told that running the engine for 15-20 mins does nothing really as it has used that much power starting it, is this true
It is something that I am worried about especially now things are quiet, was parked up last week for 15 hours on three nights.
whooshwhoosh:
first frosty morn n dead batteries.3 of our motors wouldnt start this mornin…new batteries all round!
hear about all the break downs last night - 5 from peterlee(2 guys spent the night at the hilton bellshill ) ,& 3 from bellshill- they think it is water in the diesel - with the water freezing up in the cold weather and breaking the diesel filter 
strange it happened at 2 sites 
like others say be careful of using jumps, modern lorrys are like fringin computers, it could be expensive if you fry the circuits
little enis:
zebadee:
They’re definately worth having but aren’t a decent set of jump leads a cheaper, easier option? Maybe even pick some up in the workshopBe very careful using jump leads, most new trucks run everything through a very expensive computerised management system, a surge of power like you get when you jump a truck can do irepairable damage. If you do have to revert to jumping your truck make sure you have the headlights on mainbeam. Just thought I would help here but truck mechs should be able to tell you if I am right.
hi jump a truck and blue the main fuse by the battery cost the firm big buck to come out at 2am to change a fuse but lucky for me it was the boss the told me to do it so did not have to pay
Quote: "My computer said that my battery was 23.4v this morning… "
In a fully charged system, i’ve seen readings as high as 27.7v, so 23.4 is quite
low.
The alternator will start charging as soon as the engine is running, so it’s better to drive straight away. Note though, that if the system is completely flat, it won’t charge. The alternator needs something in the battery to ‘excite’ the diodes.
When jump-starting a ‘slightly’ flat motor, it’s best to connect the leads with both vehicles swiched off. Then start the ‘dead’ vehicle. (don’t run the ‘host’ motor)
If the ‘dead’ motor is very dead, start the ‘host’ vehicle first.
This should avoid blowing anything.
bugcos:
Have been told that running the engine for 15-20 mins does nothing really as it has used that much power starting it, is this true
totaly untrue as it will charge from running it,s like a car same thing will never over charge unless faulty alternator most car,s run at 13.6v max is about 14.v and i mean max so no it does help just starting it for about 10/15 min every few hour,s
A company that I did some work for on the agency this year,used to turn the headlights on when jump starting.
Ken.
If the hand book is in the truck, it will tell you the correct sequence for connecting/disconnecting jump leads so as to reduce the risk of spiking the ecu. (Look under “emergency”)
If you don’t have the donor motor running, you could easily finish up with 2 lots of flat batteries.
Using TV’s, in cab lights, radio, etc. uses relatively little power (although some invertors used to run lap tops can be hungry), but if you use kettle, microwave, etc. then these will flatten batteries very quickly.
If a truck starts on the first touch of the key, as most do nowadays, it will only take the alternator a few minutes to put back the power used by the starter, however, if it takes some time of cranking to get it going, then indeed it will taker a good alternator maybe 10 minutes to replace the power used.
Starter motors use very high amperage & hence consume massive amounts of battery power.
Takes a tremendous effort to start an engine turning on a cold morning when the oil is thick.
Also, batteries lose a large proportion of their efficiency when their temperature is below 0
If you are afraid of messing up the ecu then disconnect the live from the battery terminal. then stick the jump leads on for about ten minutes while you have that brew that you’ve just bought for the bloke who’s lorry you’re jump starting off. Job done.
Or if you have a flat battery. Try pumping it up.
Try and persuade your boss (if you have one) to buy high amp hour(AH) batteries, many wagons come with piddly little ones and are generally a false economy.
With all the electrical goodies & gizmos in use in and around trucks these days, i don’t understand why they don’t fit auxillary batteries and a power management/split charging system like boats and mobile homes/camper vans (call 'em what you like) have.
OK, if you don’t want the weight of auxillary batteries, easy to install a voltage sensing device that switches off all auxillary circuits when the voltage drops close to the minimum required to start the engine.
This is where Iveco have the upper hand on the Stalis. The ABI (Automatic Battery Isolator) is a great bit of kit, whenever your truck is parked up for any period of time without the ignition on the ABI kicks in, with a very audible “click.”
Though from what I understand, from talking to Iveco, all it does is isolate one battery… leaving everything electrical, i.e. night heater, interior lights etc etc, running on 12v. As soon as you turn the key in the morning the ABI switches off and bingo you have 24v for starting the engine.
my battery died 2 mins after using tail lift, despite driving 100 miles you would of thought battery would of charged!! only problem i had broke down in an underground car park and was blocking several spaces while delivering.
So thanks to the secuirty guard I found out that day that an ‘x’ reg range rover can tow an 18 ton fully laden rigid backwards with a ratchet strap fast enough to bump it!!!
Had to keep engine running all day in sheffield 
Little Enis is correct, the Magnum is a ■■■■■ for blowing the ECU on a jump or booster start, always have the headlights on before jumping as this eliviates some of the initial spike.
As for checking voltage it doesn’t mean alot to be honest its the Amp’s that start the truck so 24V and 2 amps forget it but your truck meter will still show 24V or there abouts.
As for battery isolators I always turn mine off when I am parked over a weekend etc. its good practice anyway (unless you leave ■■■■ in the fridge)
And if you see a mate parked up in a magnum with his blinds down, don’t turn off the isolator as its not easy getting your clothes on in the pitch black!!