Feel a bit stupid asking but

Up hill start at T junction turning right

Manual Scania R480 hauling timber full load. I build up the revs in first gear, get a clutch bite and release hand brake and she either stalls or the revs just die. I manage to get out eventually but its a struggle (after some bouncing). what am I doing wrong? What can I do to improve?

Even tho I passed my test in a manual the trailer was empty and I’ve only driven auto’s since then.
There must be a way to do it smoothly… or smoother

Cheers for any replies, I’m tucking in for the night :slight_smile:

find yourself a gentle slope and test to see if the brakes are releasing clean, sometimes a little delay.

Try getting the clutch bite without the revs. Release the park brake. Very gently increase the revs and even more genty, engage the clutch. Many modern trucks wont stall using this technique as the computer looks after it.

It may work. It may not. But it’s worth a try.

Pete :laughing: :laughing:

Hiya find the Hillstart button if the scania is like the FH and stralis we have at work press the button release the brake and the truck holds on the hill for 3 seconds and releases when the revs are right shouldhelp you get away smoother.

matt4500:
Up hill start at T junction turning right

Manual Scania R480 hauling timber full load. I build up the revs in first gear, get a clutch bite and release hand brake and she either stalls or the revs just die. I manage to get out eventually but its a struggle (after some bouncing). what am I doing wrong? What can I do to improve?

Even tho I passed my test in a manual the trailer was empty and I’ve only driven auto’s since then.
There must be a way to do it smoothly… or smoother

Cheers for any replies, I’m tucking in for the night :slight_smile:

You are driving it like a car, look at the clutch of a lorry as more of an on-off switch, especially loaded, don’t slip it, especially in a Scania. Get the revs up but only slightly, release the clutch, don’t hesitate and don’t hold it in partially, and of you go. If she stalls or bogs down (revs decreasing) you are in too high a gear. Fully loaded, even on a steep hill a 480 should have no trouble in either 1 lo or hi.

You are running a 480hp 11+ litre inline 6 Diesel, that is a bucket full of torque, the clutch wasn’t designed to hold that amount of torque without it slipping and then burning. Slipping a clutch will only keep the power from going to the drive axle and all that torque will stay in your clutch plate.

It is a fine balance, you want to get that clutch up smoothly and at just the right moment, if you only hold it slightly and your revs are too high, she will start bouncing, that is the computer reducing the revs to prevent the clutch from burning out.

Next time you are loaded, find a quiet place with a bit of an incline and practise. Then when pulling away from a standing start, just disengage the clutch, she won’t stall, then add the power. Exagerating it by doing one at a time will show and teach you the limits of your lorry and show you how the computer kicks in to prevent you from stalling it.

She will only stall if you let the clutch go too quickly, doing it smootly and apply power smootly just when the clutch is almost entirely dis-engaged will give you the smoothest start, the steeper the hill, the earlier the power needs to come in, if she starts bouncing, then you added the power too soon or have too much clutch engaged, so let go of the clutch and power and then add power again once the clutch is fully disengaged and the bouncing has stopped, on a Scania it may take half a second or so before the power comes back in, it may seem at first that the throttle is not responding, just hold it and let the computer catch up.

In any lorry, you can’t have the revs too much above idle with any of the clutch engaged without it burning out. Another good practise is to put left foot flat on the floor as soon as she rolls and only put it back on the clutch if you intend to change gears, once changed, get your foot of. Do this for a few days and you will see a change in driving habits that suit a truck more.

A scania 480 will develop most torque just above idle, so revving the crap out of it is counter productive, keeping the revs low and change up quickly without it dropping too far will give you the most torque. Torque gets you moving, not HP. Depending on your gearing, you want to keep the revs between 1100-1300 while pulling away , if you let it drop too far the computer will kick in trying to keep you from stalling it, revving it too high will reduce the torque and just add noise. Even at idle with the clutch disengaged you will get 80-90% of your torque available, she is not going to stall on you.

(max torque is 2500Nm @1000RPM, it drops from 1300RPM down to only 1700Nm @1800RPM [these numbers are E5, the RPM is the same on E6, just less torque] the engine develops 470hp @1300RPM and reaches max HP @1500RPM)

You can always spot the newbies in an RDC or anywhere else requiring slow sharp turns, you can’t miss the whiff of their clutches when they have to maneuvre at slow speeds, especially if they are heavy, they still drive it like a car.

Thanks for the replies

Some useful info there and a good read. I’ll try and put some of that into practice tommorrow
Today was a bit easier as it was a lighter load and the road surface was dry

cheers

Couple of things spring to mind.

From your description you might have been trying to pull away before the trailer brake had released fully, can’t agree with Wheelnutt about *hill hold, it has no place on any lorry in my opinion and i switch the bugger straight off if i get in one thats turned on.
Absolutely right about controlling the feed in of power, gently does it.

*edit…apologies Wheelnutt, it wasn’t you that mentioned hill hold at all it was Daytrunker…again apologies.

Also i wonder if you were getting a bit of wheelslip (ref the bouncing) causing the TC to cut engine power momentarily.
Assuming you have a tag or mid lift, dump the air out of it before attempting such a start to put as much weight as possible on the drive axle, similarly in some situations it might pay to turn off traction control (or ASR on MAN’s) before attempting the start, last thing you need is to get the thing moving nicely when slippery only for the TC to cut in and stop you.

Course if you’d had a proper engine, a 14 litre ■■■■■■■ thumping away under the bonnet, the motor would have romped away without the slightest hesitation, probably in 2nd or 3rd gear too, and you’d have been half way home whilst that Swedish thing was still kangarooing… :smiling_imp: :smiling_imp: :smiling_imp: :wink:

You probably need to lift the clutch higher before accelerating. It’s designed like this to prevent clutch wear.

I use to drive one at Meyer Timber like that. Took me a while to sus it. Lol.

Let us know how you get on

Paul :smiley:

If it was a wet surface then are you getting wheel spin then a stall?

matt4500:
Up hill start at T junction turning right

Manual Scania R480 hauling timber full load. I build up the revs in first gear, get a clutch bite and release hand brake and she either stalls or the revs just die. I manage to get out eventually but its a struggle (after some bouncing). what am I doing wrong? What can I do to improve?

Even tho I passed my test in a manual the trailer was empty and I’ve only driven auto’s since then.
There must be a way to do it smoothly… or smoother

Cheers for any replies, I’m tucking in for the night :slight_smile:

Take it you driving a Cat C if trying to pull away in 1st is it a straight 6 speed gear box :question:

We have some like that if I am loaded I try pulling away in 2nd gear

I like the hill start button had 1 in the MAN I had but only turned it on when I thought I needed it can be a help

But then I dont like night heaters never used 1 yep done noght out even in winter

elmet training:
You probably need to lift the clutch higher before accelerating. It’s designed like this to prevent clutch wear.

I use to drive one at Meyer Timber like that. Took me a while to sus it. Lol.

Let us know how you get on

Paul :smiley:

Just to add to my response

viewtopic.php?f=2&t=94494

Paul :smiley:

Juddian
Dont like them either but always there if needed, all our units are autos so bit of a cheat having hillstart aswell.
Saying that we do Marlands centre in Southampton the hill up to it is a bugger in the wet with only 2 pallets in the back especially in the stralis

Daytrunker:
Juddian
Dont like them either but always there if needed, all our units are autos so bit of a cheat having hillstart aswell.
Saying that we do Marlands centre in Southampton the hill up to it is a bugger in the wet with only 2 pallets in the back especially in the stralis

Its about 4 years since i’ve driven a Stralis, the last batch i drove were three axle tractors, just refresh my memory if you would please…ISTR there being no way to dump the air from the middle axle, is that the case, if so yes a brilliant design for slippery conditions… :unamused:

elmet training:

elmet training:
You probably need to lift the clutch higher before accelerating. It’s designed like this to prevent clutch wear.

I use to drive one at Meyer Timber like that. Took me a while to sus it. Lol.

Let us know how you get on

Paul :smiley:

Just to add to my response

viewtopic.php?f=2&t=94494

Paul :smiley:

Yes. Now I understand. Good thread

Had a read of this before i went to work and I tried it today. Much better and smoother pulling away
Wouldnt say it was 100% but it felt right. Back to auto’s next week. Tut! :slight_smile:

Juddian:

Daytrunker:
Juddian
Dont like them either but always there if needed, all our units are autos so bit of a cheat having hillstart aswell.
Saying that we do Marlands centre in Southampton the hill up to it is a bugger in the wet with only 2 pallets in the back especially in the stralis

Its about 4 years since i’ve driven a Stralis, the last batch i drove were three axle tractors, just refresh my memory if you would please…ISTR there being no way to dump the air from the middle axle, is that the case, if so yes a brilliant design for slippery conditions… :unamused:

I always try to lift the middle axle if I can when its wet its a bugger just spins if you try and get onto a island or out of a junction new 14 plate aswell.just seems too light compared to the FH we have.

Matt, Scania’s do have a hill start switch (well, at least mine did). It was on the right of the instrument cluster. If I was fully loaded then I used to use it cos I am a lazy bugger

matt4500:

elmet training:

elmet training:
You probably need to lift the clutch higher before accelerating. It’s designed like this to prevent clutch wear.

I use to drive one at Meyer Timber like that. Took me a while to sus it. Lol.

Let us know how you get on

Paul :smiley:

Just to add to my response

viewtopic.php?f=2&t=94494

Paul :smiley:

Yes. Now I understand. Good thread

Had a read of this before i went to work and I tried it today. Much better and smoother pulling away
Wouldnt say it was 100% but it felt right. Back to auto’s next week. Tut! :slight_smile:

I knew straight away after reading your post where you were coming from.
I’ve been training a truck mechanic this week and he said to me keep your trucks as long as you can because the new ones are a nightmaare.

Paul

It is not stupid to ask for help.
Just look at the response you have received from people that wanted to help.
And not one made a silly comment.

Remember the only question is the stupid one

.