I’ve bought a 2500 watt inverter to run a microwave in my wagon and am looking for the correct cabling to run it direct from the batteries. I’ll also need a heavy duty Anderson connector and in line mega fuse. Just wondered if anyone knew of an online wholesaler of such items? Cheers.
Vehicle Wiring Products
You’ll need some very fat cable. 2500W output at 90% efficiency will need nearly 2800W input which at 24V is almost 120A.
So you’re going to be wanting at least 16mm2 cable, probably better with 25mm2 to be on the safe side if you’re going to be using it anywhere near the rated output.
Paul
Yeah I know it’s gonna have to be pretty similar to jump leads I would have thought, but it’s still a lot cheaper going down this route than buying a 24v microwave. I spoke to the guys at Malton Auto Electrics and they seem pretty helpful so I’ll let them put it in I think!
xfmatt:
Yeah I know it’s gonna have to be pretty similar to jump leads I would have thought, but it’s still a lot cheaper going down this route than buying a 24v microwave. I spoke to the guys at Malton Auto Electrics and they seem pretty helpful so I’ll let them put it in I think!
I would think they will have suitable cable and connectors in stock to be honest.
Paul
I have a Samsung 24v microwave you could have had for £40. Been sitting doing nothing for 3 years mind!
That’s a shame mate as I’ve already bought the inverter and it’s been delivered. Never mind!
xfmatt:
Yeah I know it’s gonna have to be pretty similar to jump leads I would have thought, but it’s still a lot cheaper going down this route than buying a 24v microwave. I spoke to the guys at Malton Auto Electrics and they seem pretty helpful so I’ll let them put it in I think!
Thick copper cable is an horrendous price. A heavy duty set of jump leads might be a cheaper way of buying the cable.
There is an issue with the cable heating but realistically unless you’re running the microwave at full pelt for ages as long as the cable isn’t of stupidly thin cross-sectional area it should be ok. I generally try to route the cable away from any wiring harnesses or other component that could be damaged if something did go wrong.
I would put an SB 175 grey anderson connector on which is the most common that is put on units already for tail-lifts. Check as it might well have a mega-fuse already, if you do put one in I wouldn’t go too close in amp rating or it might just go annoyingly often, keep a spare in the cab. If you do need to put one in you’ll need the fuse and the holder, the holder is surprsingly pricey for what it is. If you haven’t got access to a meaty enough crimp-tool for an anderson connector you can use a cold chisel and hammer or a nut-splitter is very effective.
If we get asked to install one any time in the near future, I’II upload some how to photos.
Got a 1500w in my Volvo FH12 and it is wired using the supplied cable to the main junction that comes into the cab in the passenger footwell.
I’ve spoke to the guy who does all my maintenance and he said they usually just wire it up to the main feed in the cab. My only worry is that if it does overheat it will melt something other than just the cables going to the battery. Suppose they are the experts though!
xfmatt:
I’ve spoke to the guy who does all my maintenance and he said they usually just wire it up to the main feed in the cab. My only worry is that if it does overheat it will melt something other than just the cables going to the battery. Suppose they are the experts though!
Personally, I don’t wire them in there for the reason you mention and a high-rated inverter will easily be the highest current draw in in the cab. It’s also a long path from the battery to the cab as it goes right along the chassis and up the front grill to allow the cab to be tilted.
Plenty of folk will say they’ve done them that way no problem though but, I wouldn’t as I don’t think it saves that much time on installation either really.
xfmatt:
I’ve spoke to the guy who does all my maintenance and he said they usually just wire it up to the main feed in the cab. My only worry is that if it does overheat it will melt something other than just the cables going to the battery. Suppose they are the experts though!
For the sake of a few metres of cable I would always wire it straight to the battery. Zero chance of melting something important that way.
Paul
Exactly my thoughts Paul. I reckon I can get away with about 2 metres of cable if I drill through the floor or even the side of the cab and run the wires through a rubber gromit.
xfmatt:
Exactly my thoughts Paul. I reckon I can get away with about 2 metres of cable if I drill through the floor or even the side of the cab and run the wires through a rubber gromit.
Just don’t forget that if you want to still be able to tilt the cab the cables need to run to the front near the hinge and then back along the chassis to the batteries.
Or you could run them the direct route and put an anderson plug/socket on them so you can disconnect them before you tip the cab but if you do that you can bet your bottom dollar that one time you’re in a rush to lift the cab you’ll forget about it and do some damage.
Paul
Could you not fit the invertor close to the battery, and cable up to the cab using standard 2.5mm flex at 230v? You’ll get a lot less voltage drop that way, and will have the high current (& fire hazard bits) outside the main cab.
Gary
Could you not fit the invertor close to the battery, and cable up to the cab using standard 2.5mm flex at 230v? You’ll get a lot less voltage drop that way, save a fortune on the high current cable, and will have the high current (& fire hazard bits) outside the main cab.
Gary
Have a look at one of the pictures I put on this thread which will give you and idea of the sort way you can arrange things so the plugs just pull apart without damage if the cab’s tilted whilst still connected.
Once you’ve run the cable through the grommet totally cover the whole lot with silicone/mastic both sides, it’s surprising how much wet from road spray can get through the tiniest of holes,. I would drill two separate holes, on for each cable and they’ll be a more snug fit if they each go through their own grommet - still use sealant as well though.
scaniason:
Could you not fit the invertor close to the battery, and cable up to the cab using standard 2.5mm flex at 230v? You’ll get a lot less voltage drop that way, save a fortune on the high current cable, and will have the high current (& fire hazard bits) outside the main cab.Gary
I did it this way on my own main driver and bolted it to the cab exterior above the wheel arch beneath a side-locker. As you suggest it then goes to normal switched household sockets on a pattress box mounted in the cab interior. The problem is even though it’s pretty dry mounted there you’ve still really got to weather protect the inverter with some sort of plastic casing.
Our 08 fh has 16mm cables from the starter to a 2500 invertor behind the drivers seat, about 5 metres long ,expensive .They never warm up when the microwave is used.I would use a anderson plug as someone said. the cable would be much shorter.