Evening all so i ve landed on my feet with a lovely little number driving for a race team this season. I m going to collect the truck a 2008 MAN tgx XXL next weekend to bring home and give it a good clean and i want to spruce it up a little. So firstly i want to upgrade the stereo to a nice double din 7inch touch screen i ve found the ISO wiring block and the double din facsia kit (my newbie status will show now) but my question is if the stereo is 24v which i believe it is from a quick google does that mean i have to be carefull with what stereo i buy■■?
Also i ve driven the truck on a trial weekend last year and noticed two faults with it first is i cant move the steering wheel i press the pad on the floor and nothing but to be honest i dont feel any sort of switch when i push it and secondly the air seat will work over a single bump but if i go over multiple bumps the seat will eventually just slam to the floor which fcking hurts lol
Right steering wheel button is on dash to l/h side of column ,
The seat have you pulled the second leaver on r/h side right up and that should firm seat up
blue estate:
Right steering wheel button is on dash to l/h side of column ,
The seat have you pulled the second leaver on r/h side right up and that should firm seat up
Magic will have a look for the steering wheel adjuster as i thought it was the round bit on the floor.
Tried the seat on the firmest setting
Stanny_1985:
blue estate:
Right steering wheel button is on dash to l/h side of column ,
The seat have you pulled the second leaver on r/h side right up and that should firm seat upMagic will have a look for the steering wheel adjuster as i thought it was the round bit on the floor.
Tried the seat on the firmest setting
you’ve got newer cab interior still got same mat but the dash has changed even my 2016 TGS has the button bit on the floor but has the switch on the dash
If the stereo is 24v then use a step down transformer.
2008?
For some reason, I’m thinking the steering adjustment is a button on the floor towards the back of the drivers door.
Or I’m confusing it with another motor. I know there’s something out there that has a steering button in that area.
yourhavingalarf:
2008?For some reason, I’m thinking the steering adjustment is a button on the floor towards the back of the drivers door.
Or I’m confusing it with another motor. I know there’s something out there that has a steering button in that area.
TGM 18t is on the floor and has the all grey slab fronted dash
TGX etc with the more contoured silver trimmed dash are by steering wheel
MAN artics are funny things on undulating roads, not sure what a rigid would be like never driven one, it’s not the seat itself thats bottoming out its caused when you go over a series of bumps that coincide with the rebound of the relatively soft springs coupled with anything other than brand new shockers.
There’s one particular fen B road i go down once in while, if loaded and i hit the section at anything over 40mph the rebound is so violent it chucks anything not bolted down out the open cubbies and off the shelf in the middle, trouble is there’s no bloody landmarks so have to try and remember exactly where to cut the speed, that massive road collapse bump that used to be outside Peterborough hospital on the A47 inside lane would do the same, haven’t experienced anything as bad since Leyland T45’s, a Constructor version of i drove which was peppered with dents in the thin steel pressing just above the drivers head where the radio (IIRC was mounted), you could leave the seat completely with spring rebound and bounce off it if the road undulated enough.
Just a quirk of the marque, bit like the ship’s wheel to steer with and what feels like 47 turns from lock to lock 
, rest of the time MAN are one of the most comfortable lorries out there.
Juddian:
MAN artics are funny things on undulating roads, not sure what a rigid would be like never driven one, it’s not the seat itself thats bottoming out its caused when you go over a series of bumps that coincide with the rebound of the relatively soft springs coupled with anything other than brand new shockers.There’s one particular fen B road i go down once in while, if loaded and i hit the section at anything over 40mph the rebound is so violent it chucks anything not bolted down out the open cubbies and off the shelf in the middle, trouble is there’s no bloody landmarks so have to try and remember exactly where to cut the speed, that massive road collapse bump that used to be outside Peterborough hospital on the A47 inside lane would do the same, haven’t experienced anything as bad since Leyland T45’s, a Constructor version of i drove which was peppered with dents in the thin steel pressing just above the drivers head where the radio (IIRC was mounted), you could leave the seat completely with spring rebound and bounce off it if the road undulated enough.
Just a quirk of the marque, bit like the ship’s wheel to steer with and what feels like 47 turns from lock to lock
Your right about the Turning my old truck a 2008 TGM 18t was like the queen Mary coming in to Southampton but my TGS 2016 26t turns a lot sharper just got to watch for the over hang at the back swinging out
Don’t take offence, if you do not own the truck, don’t fiddle with it.
Has the boss giving permission to do botch jobs ?
Are you qualified to mess about with it ?
If an error is made, it may cause further problems with the electrical system , causing a breakdown or a fire .
So hands off it .
Get it done properly , who knows how to do it.
What’s a double din stereo upgrade?
Double the size of a single one …
What’s a single one?
A normal radio is single din (about 2")
Double din is about 4"
commonrail:
What’s a single one?
A letterbox shape.
A double din is a parcelbox shape! 
You’ve lost me
commonrail:
You’ve lost me
A Tacho unit is a single DIN, if you stacked 2 Tacho units on top of each other, you get a double DIN…
Gotcha
Two stereos would make a ■■■■■■■ awful din. Specially if they were on different stations.
Juddian:
MAN artics are funny things on undulating roads, not sure what a rigid would be like never driven one, it’s not the seat itself thats bottoming out its caused when you go over a series of bumps that coincide with the rebound of the relatively soft springs coupled with anything other than brand new shockers.There’s one particular fen B road i go down once in while, if loaded and i hit the section at anything over 40mph the rebound is so violent it chucks anything not bolted down out the open cubbies and off the shelf in the middle, trouble is there’s no bloody landmarks so have to try and remember exactly where to cut the speed, that massive road collapse bump that used to be outside Peterborough hospital on the A47 inside lane would do the same, haven’t experienced anything as bad since Leyland T45’s, a Constructor version of i drove which was peppered with dents in the thin steel pressing just above the drivers head where the radio (IIRC was mounted), you could leave the seat completely with spring rebound and bounce off it if the road undulated enough.
Just a quirk of the marque, bit like the ship’s wheel to steer with and what feels like 47 turns from lock to lock
Have the chassis stretched so it’s a long wheel base unit. See how easy it is ? 