Cracked alloy wheel

Has anyone had this happen to them, tipping at a job in Worcester today I noticed black lines coming from the wheel nuts, I suspected loose nuts but then noticed the cracks.

Emailed pictures to the office who sent the fitter down from Derby with a replacement wheel, the wheel is cracked right through.

Do you know if they are original fitment wheels or aftermarket ones?

Not common but not unheard of in alloys, usually cars after hotting potholes. Normally a fault in the maunfacturing process

Looks like a case of brake bind or wheel bearing failure.
Either way,that wheel has got a tadge warm :bulb:

I don’t want to worry you but the hub cap has a set screw missing as well :confused:

I have seen it before with Alcoa’s, but on a truck that had done nearly 2 million kms :open_mouth:

shortfatbaldbloke:
Has anyone had this happen to them, tipping at a job in Worcester today I noticed black lines coming from the wheel nuts, I suspected loose nuts but then noticed the cracks.

Emailed pictures to the office who sent the fitter down from Derby with a replacement wheel, the wheel is cracked right through.

Well done for spotting that drive,youve probably averted a disaster,hope the boss appreciated your action…

I’d have thought those studs were a bit short as well. There’s normally thread showing.

Maybe the thickness of the alloy causing that?

common fault on Alcoa’s they are only good for five years, after that they start to crack, the cracking starts on the inside so unless you take the wheels off and check you won’t know until the crack comes all the way through, had to change several on our trailers, just putting steels on now as and when they crack :confused: :confused: :confused: :confused: :confused: :confused:

Only saw this once before and it was caused by over torque when tightening the wheel nuts, even so it shows a big and very dangerous flaw in manufacturing.

I think the problem is the wheel has been fitted using the original studs (which were for a steel wheel).

Shouldn’t an Alcoa be fitted with the detachable ‘bolt-type’ studs, which are longer because the wheel itself is thicker, and have a different profile shank?

I suspect this may have stressed the wheel.

Please feel to correct me if I’m wrong.

Not just alloys - I had a steel wheel on a 3.5 Transit crack in a similar way. Bloody glad I spotted it as it was a single on the front!

GasGas:
I think the problem is the wheel has been fitted using the original studs (which were for a steel wheel).

Please feel to correct me if I’m wrong.

On DAF’s the wheel nuts are longer and there’s thread the other side of the ring that tightens again the face of the wheel.

206doorman:
I’d have thought those studs were a bit short as well. There’s normally thread showing.

Maybe the thickness of the alloy causing that?

Well spotted :exclamation:
I looked at that after I saw your comment and you are right, I don’t know about UK laws since I left but it is positively the law that so many threads must show outside the wheel nuts. The mechanic who fitted these wheels should have know better.

Left - Normal
Right - Alloy Wheel

Pat Hasler:
I don’t know about UK laws since I left but it is positively the law that so many threads must show outside the wheel nuts. The mechanic who fitted these wheels should have know better.

Definitely not the case! Those wheel nuts are just fine if there sleeved, if not then yeah I’d agree the fitter should know better, I would think the cracks on the wheel above probably caused with good intentions, too torque wheel nuts correctly they should be loosened first before being cracked by a torque wrench, how many drivers, mechanics or tyre fitters do you know who does this, not many I know!

Rattled up as tight as the whizz gun will go and then pointlessly checked with the torque wrench!! But them how many of the above grease threads and oil the ring on wheel nuts, again not many.

Basic stuff and yet big hotshot managers at big fleets still can’t stop wheel lose and loose wheel nuts!

olds’kool:
0

Left - Normal
Right - Alloy Wheel

Not quite correct left is standard fit right is retro fit. Alcoa supply both just depends on what you spec

wildfire:

olds’kool:
0

Left - Normal
Right - Alloy Wheel

Not quite correct left is standard fit right is retro fit. Alcoa supply both just depends on what you spec

Still not quite right, they’re both retrofit nuts. The one on the left is for single wheel fitments (i.e. steer or lift) and the one on the right is for twin wheel fitments (i.e. drive).

Paul

Pat Hasler:

206doorman:
I’d have thought those studs were a bit short as well. There’s normally thread showing.

Maybe the thickness of the alloy causing that?

Well spotted :exclamation:
I looked at that after I saw your comment and you are right, I don’t know about UK laws since I left but it is positively the law that so many threads must show outside the wheel nuts. The mechanic who fitted these wheels should have know better.

This is definitely not the case. Those nuts are sleeved “retrofit” types which allow alloys to be used on vehicles with the shorter studs designed for steel wheels. It’s 100% legal in every way. I used to have them on my tipper trailer and it went through 3 MoTs and several roadside checks without any issues in the time I had it.

Paul

I took a couple of pics of wheel nuts on an artic i was asked to drive a couple of years back… I was not impressed, and defected it… was I right or wrong ■■?

Dead right imo, thats dangerous!