The really important parts of an assessment are the coupling/uncoupling procedure and giving them a nice drive.
I will run through the whole thing with you just to clarify.
- Check the unit. This consists of checking oil, fuel and coolant levels. Oil level check might be done from in the cab. If not sure, ask the assessor. This also applies to coolant. Make sure you check the oil before starting the engine.
Having done this you could now start the engine. If you find the air is low this might hint at a problem. Let it build up the air. At this point you could check the steering, is there any excess play? Also, are there any warning lights showing? There will be some on start up but they should go out. Built up the air? Switch off and do your walk round checks. Get the bonnet up, ask the assessor how if you don’t know, there’s several different ways. Depending on vehicle this could be the time to check oil and coolant levels. Look under the unit for any evidence of leaks.
Check lights, tax disc and operator disc are current. Make sure there’s no bits hanging off or dangerous looking, unlikely in an assessment vehicle, check tyres and wheelnuts. Wheelnut pointers should align with each other and there should be none missing. Many firms don’t use them. Any oil sitting on the wheel rim? Rain suppressant gear intact and solidly attached? That’s mudguards.
All suzies present and in good condition? Fifth wheel got some grease on it? Is the fifth wheel handle in it’s correct position? A look is all that’s required with a little experience but give it a pull to see if it comes out. If there’s two handles then the one nearest the fifth wheel plate is the one you want. The other one moves the whole thing backwards or forwards. Dog clip there?
As you walked round did you hear air escaping? If yes bring it to the attention of the assessor.
All the above is a comprehensive list of checks. Think of your car and what you need to do to ensure it is both legally and mechanically fit to go on the road. Add on the suzies, fifth wheel and possible air leaks and that covers you.
Coupling up. First thing, make sure the trailer brake is on!
Check the trailer mot test is in date, there’s a disc and plate usually on the chassis by the winding handle or on the front of the trailer. No point hooking up to one that’s out of MOT. Trailers less that a year old do not need one though. Check if the trailer is loaded, an empty one will be easier for you to get under. Loaded will need careful matching of fifth wheel height to trailer to avoid the need for excessive throttle.
Ask the assessor if split coupling is necessary. When the gap between unit and trailer is small it might be permitted to do this. Many large companies do not allow it. Is there anything on the trailer you do not recognise and are not sure about? Ask the assessor.
For straightforward coupling.
Having applied the trailer brake first, reverse towards the trailer, stopping short of making contact with it. Get out and assess the height of the fifth wheel against the trailer and adjust it using the unit suspension controls. Ask the assessor to explain if you’re not familiar with them.
Having matched the height of unit and trailer reverse under slowly until you meet the pin and hear the jaws engage. It’s something like the lock on a door when it closes,have your window down to listen. As a newbie I would suggest you do your tug test to check your securely connected.
PARK BRAKE ON NOW!!! 
Switch it off, diesel fumes are cancerous!
Dog clip in. If it won’t go in the handle may not have retracted fully and giving it a slap to the left will usually see it go in and the clip can go on. If it doesn’t go in you haven’t locked on properly. It happens! Back in the cab and try again just come forward a foot and back again. If it continues to be a problem adjust the unit suspension slightly which might help.
PARK BRAKE ON AGAIN!!!
Attach the suzies but have a quick look at the pins in the electrical suzies, if any are broken or bent they might cause a problem, you won’t know for sure until you connect them. Leave the red airline till last9it might not be red but will have a collar you pull back to attach it). Give it ten seconds. Is the world moving around you? YOU DIDN’T APPLY THE BLOODY BRAKES!!! YOU CAN WHIP THE RED AIRLINE BACK OFF AND SAVE THE DAY!
Any air escaping from the airlines? No, move on .Yes , get the assessors opinion.
For split coupling again match the height of the fifth wheel to the trailer and drive under the trailer but don’t go all the way back. Stop and APPLY THE UNIT BRAKE!!! IS THE TRAILER BRAKE ON■■?
YES TO BOTH AND YOU CAN CONNECT THE SUZIES!
Now reverse back until you lock on the pin. As you’ve done your suzies you should do your dog clip and then the legs.
Wind the legs up. If they’re too stiff because the weight of the trailer is on them push the winding handle in and this will give you a lower gear to wind the legs up. When the winding handle meets no resistance pull it back out again for high gear and wind the legs fully up!.
Remember that TRAILER BRAKE■■?
You can release it now but don’t leave it yet. Give it ten seconds to see if the outfit starts moving because you left the UNIT BRAKE OFF!!!
Start her up and build the air. Don’t leave it running.
Put your number plate on and carry out your walk round checks as per the unit, listening for air leaks. If the trailer is loaded make sure the load is secure.
Now go out and give him a safe drive!
Many of the issues I have pointed out will not arise with a high profile company such as Stobarts. Most likely you will not have any legal or mechanical problems to deal with and it will be straightforward.
Good luck!
The guy I was training with tried to drive forward after coupling up and wondered why he was going nowhere, while me and the trainer tried hard to keep a straight face “mock test conditions”. I don’t suppose they will have a “stick” for your asessment, but I still PMSL when I think about it. 
