Hopefully someone can point me in the right direction, I have just started using chains and ratchets and am having a few issues.
When I click the chains on each side of the trailer and across the machinery or item that needs restraint, I pop a ratchet on as far as I can leaving all the slack hanging down and start ratcheting.
When I start ratcheting it is wrapping the chain around the ratchet and I end up turning it all back by hand. It gets a pain in the ■■■ and works out easier if you use 4 hands to hold each end and the other 2 to turn the ratchet back and forth. Is there an easier way or am I doing it all wrong?
As has been said above, lots of lube on the threads, use something like engine oil rather than wd40 as the heavier oil will stay on for longer.
Also, when removing them, wind them out fully, it makes it easier to tie down the next load as you have all the thread to work with.
kitbuilder123:
As has been said above, lots of lube on the threads, use something like engine oil rather than wd40 as the heavier oil will stay on for longer.
Also, when removing them, wind them out fully, it makes it easier to tie down the next load as you have all the thread to work with.
Deffo +1 all of the advice above.
I’m sure you’re pulling the chain tight, using fully unwound chain tensioners and clipping hooks at maximum width that keeps the chain tight before turning/tightening the tensioner.
I always found that if it occurred occasionally, standing on the end turning round until it tightened and stopped was my way to overcome it…but lubricating them properly put a stop to it.
However where I work now I’m allowed to “chose” what I use…and I’ve gone back on to using “dogs”, controversial I know!!! But so much better for a lot of reasons including alieviating my tennis elbow problem from them bloody chain ratchet tensioners!
PS I’m not an old skool user but appreciate the old ways are sometimes the best still!!
I’ve only ever used dogs. I watched that video and agree with Constantine… except for the time I think I’ve put it on here before) when on a wet day, I lost grip on the bit of steel pipe I had on the handle and had to walk about 50 yards to get it back.
I’ve worked in lifting equipment and have supplied many of these, common thing the ratchet sticking tends to be caused by them being immersed in water, due to drivers leaving them exposed.
They need to be stripped down by simply unscrewing them, all the way out clean all the rust off the threads, and then with some copper grease or general purpose grease work it into the threads of the dog and on the threads them selves use wd40 on the ratchet mechanism as its a water dispersant. check the chains for bent or stretched links it aint uncommon in seized dogs and constantly working them when faulty
Thanks for that. So my problem is that they are not lubed up so that’s why they twist the chain.
I am only doing the job temporarily and it involves moving machinery in roadworks so no long distance. I will take a tin of WD40 with me as that should alleviate the problem in the short term As well as carrying a crowbar.
The “Dogs” look quite old and are stored on a tray over the catwalk so are exposed to the elements.
yes that is the main reason they twist the chain rather than add tension to them, but if they are really that bad your company weather your with them temporarily or not should replace with new if the old ones are faulty under PUWER 1998 (Provisions and Use of Working Equipment Regulations) the HSE love this one as you can get done for improper use of a stapler or photocopier under these lol, as the equipment you use for your job should be fit for purpose
Quick tip as well, always close them up after use so as the threads aren’t showing, this stops the threads from rusting and also keeps the lubricant on then
scottie0011:
Quick tip as well, always close them up after use so as the threads aren’t showing, this stops the threads from rusting and also keeps the lubricant on then
This if you’re not going to use them for a while. If I’m on full time steel I leave them open all the time.
On;y use WD40 to free off seized ones. As someone else said Engine oil is best to keep them free. I prefer to keep them clean and use the minimum required to keep them free. One lad I used to work with used to smother everything with a mix of waste oil and diesel. Equally as effective but bloody messy.
peterm:
I lost grip on the bit of steel pipe I had on the handle and had to walk about 50 yards to get it back.
Not been there yet but know the stories!
You gotta respect dogs big time, the second you turn your back or lose grip or concentration with them and if you’ve unfortunate stood in the wrong place…they bite back hard
Ask 8wheels he knows of some stories and bet peterm does if he has used them all the time.
Great bits of kit if respected all the time every time!
trubster:
I am only doing the job temporarily and it involves moving machinery in roadworks so no long distance. I will take a tin of WD40 with me as that should alleviate the problem in the short term As well as carrying a crowbar.
Teaching you to ■■■■ eggs here but you want to make sure them chains are doing their job even for a short time/distance as they’re the only thing holding stuff on and stopping it joining you in the cab.
Otherwise it could get embarrassing for you or worse god forbid something happened
As for WD40 if you can’t get engine oil it’d be better to use 3 in 1 oil at least that’ll give you a slightly longer lasting lubricant than WD40.
But so much better for a lot of reasons including alieviating my tennis elbow problem from them bloody chain ratchet tensioners!
Not been there yet but know the stories!
