i’ve been having a spot of bother with my nuts lately. whenever i have to change a wheel my wheel brace keeps bending.
it’s a standard scania piece of crap, so i’m thinking of buying a breaker bar, an extension, and socket. but do you think the pin on the pivot joint will be strong enough? or should i just weld a socket to the end of an “L” shaped bar?
limeyphil:
i’ve been having a spot of bother with my nuts lately. whenever i have to change a wheel my wheel brace keeps bending.
it’s a standard scania piece of crap, so i’m thinking of buying a breaker bar, an extension, and socket. but do you think the pin on the pivot joint will be strong enough? or should i just weld a socket to the end of an “L” shaped bar?
Forget it Phil, get a brace of these 
I never have and never will change a tyre on a truck, thats what road service is for 
Pat Hasler:
I never have and never will change a tyre on a truck, thats what road service is for
the thing is, some places are a bit out of the way. and you know something will go wrong when you are in the back and beyond.
it cost me 200 euros in italy just for a puncture repair. the nuts were so tight we needed a gas axe to heat them up.
and although i got 250 euros back, i just don’t like parting with my money.
Good choice 
And while your at it, spend a bit extra and invest in an adjustable axle stand to support said bar while your swinging on it
trux is right and get someone you trust to hit the end of the bar opposite the nut while you apply the pressure with big feet. works a treat.
Nolan not do call outs 
I use a petrol 1" drive nut gun bit like a chainsaw without the chain,havent had a wheelnut thats beaten it yet, best tool i ever got hold of.fits nicely in the box on chassis aswell.
He should just wait. Won’t be using Scania wheel braces much longer. Maybe DAF ones are better.
Begs the question though, how often have you changed wheels? In my 10 years driving trucks I’ve done it twice.
Oh and no Nolans don’t do call outs, you have to change it yourself.
a length of scaffold pole comes in handy too, and i keep toying with one of them torque converters, seen them work thay are good, changed hundreds by hand, hate it, just atack it, its the only way…
limeyphil:
i’m thinking of buying a breaker bar, an extension, and socket. but do you think the pin on the pivot joint will be strong enough?
I’ve got a 3/4" drive 2’ long breaker bar that I carry with me and when I had to remove a trailer wheel by the side of the road I couldn’t get them undone even by bouncing up and down on it so we slid a bit of tube about 4’ long onto the end of it and swung on that and they came undone fine without the pivot pin breaking.
Paul
Done a few changes in my time but to be honest I’m glad we don’t do that anymore,
I just leave it to ATS nowdays , no more back braking struggle “cracking” then there nuts. (wheels or mine).
They have the kit to make it fairly easy so why bother doing it yourself.
Big breaker bar and keep it in your cab something to swing at folk with when they try to pinch your diesel
A lot of the trouble is air guns are so over powered and used untill the torque is higher than needed, when they replace the wheel nuts they should just tighten them untill the air gun starts to click then use a regular torque wrench, when they keep the gun hammering well after the nuts are tight it over torques them and it’s very hard to crack the nuts loose. As just sugested if you have no choice but do it yourself a big breajer bar is needed.
pete904ni:
Nolan not do call outs
why call someone out, if you can do it youself, and get paid to do it?
limeyphil:
pete904ni:
Nolan not do call outswhy call someone out, if you can do it youself, and get paid to do it?
Oh and don’t expect them to pay you to do it either. Unlike my current employer that pays a bonus if you change it yourself you’ll be lucky if you get so much as a thank you from that shower.
limeyphil:
pete904ni:
Nolan not do call outswhy call someone out, if you can do it youself, and get paid to do it?
Keep ATS in a job and the economy afloat
limeyphil:
the nuts were so tight we needed a gas axe to heat them up.
Thats bad. Shouldn’t do that. Or did they change the studs too?
richmond:
i keep toying with one of them torque converters, seen them work thay are good,
At £30-£50 quid on Ebay, I was skeptical about their quality, but took the plunge and bought one. I was amazed how much power they have. Now got them on all the service vans. Never failed yet, and we use them on U bolts and spring bolts too. Well worth the money.
dbcooper:
I use a petrol 1" drive nut gun bit like a chainsaw without the chain.
A Brantz gun, used by the railway lads for driving sleeper bolts in. When Jarvis Fastline went bang there were loads of these in the liquidation auctions. Nice bit of kit, pricey though. They have far more power than a 1" drive windy gun.
Thats the one. I wouldn’t spend £100+ on a Jack Sealey one mind.
Take note, the arm WILL dig into alloy wheels when used, we put a bit of plate between the arm and wheel rim to stop it marking the wheel.