Auxillery power for cab kit

we all know that theres a limit to how many accesories you can pull power the ciggie socket before it becomes unsafe, and after a recent chat with a mate got me wondering.
I am contemplating building a distributioin type board that will connect to the batteries via a 175amp anderson connector that is already fitted to the unit to power the tail lift. to allow for possible future expansion of cab accesories, microwave,fridge, kettle etc,mebbe even a digibox for the tele, so that kit can be plugged in/unplugged
I`m confused as to which direction to go, either fix an inverter to said dis-board and use 240 volt kit, or a mixture of 12v, 24v, 240v.
have any of you, ever gone down this route of taking, the power from the batteries, and how have you dealt with the problem, what sort of;
plugs/sockets used
cables used
fuses (size/rating) used

the obvious point is the cost, especially the price of the accesories, as we know that 240 kit is cheaper than 12/24.

I would keep my inverter seperate from my tail lift.Wouldn’t be good if you couldn’t unload because your toaster fried your lift wiring.

I’m no electrician so I would have a pro spec the inverter for your requirements and have him install it.

Happily I dont have this problem as I have 240v power to the cab.

Enough to run a LCD t.v ,Digibox,microwave & domestic kettle simaltaneously

:smiley: :smiley: :smiley: :smiley: :smiley: :smiley: :smiley: :smiley:

Happily I dont have this problem as I have 240v power to the cab.

Enough to run a LCD t.v ,Digibox,microwave & domestic kettle simaltaneously

but how??

I currently have;
mobile charger x 2
satnav + gps reciever
and occationally TV/dvd combo on ciggies socket, to while away the few hours before bed.

but if things go thuther, Ill end up wanting more,and more luxuries to help with the life out on the road, hence me contemplating the need to seek electrical power from the batteries via the anderson socket. I doubt ATM that a microwave oven will be at the top of my list but, with the recent forum descusson over gas stoves in cabs, I feel the need to convert to an electric kettle to start with, shortly followed by an aeriel booster and digi-box for the TV. and no doubt the slow climb towards having ALL the stuff onboard will happen at some point, which is why I asked the original question. as I dont wanna fry/kill the electical wiring or the batteries
[/quote]

peirre:
but how??

mopacc.com/

peirre:
we all know that theres a limit to how many accesories you can pull power the ciggie socket before it becomes unsafe, and after a recent chat with a mate got me wondering.
I am contemplating building a distributioin type board that will connect to the batteries via a 175amp anderson connector that is already fitted to the unit to power the tail lift. to allow for possible future expansion of cab accesories, microwave,fridge, kettle etc,mebbe even a digibox for the tele, so that kit can be plugged in/unplugged
I`m confused as to which direction to go, either fix an inverter to said dis-board and use 240 volt kit, or a mixture of 12v, 24v, 240v.
have any of you, ever gone down this route of taking, the power from the batteries, and how have you dealt with the problem, what sort of;
plugs/sockets used
cables used
fuses (size/rating) used

the obvious point is the cost, especially the price of the accesories, as we know that 240 kit is cheaper than 12/24.

Now i know you’re gonna laugh, but bear with me! Get a small wheel and fit it with some pedals and fit an “old style dynamo” like what was used on pedal cycles.Then wire it to a ciggarette lighter style socket and bobs your uncle. This would have many benefits, the first being it is a renewable energy source and you may even get a grant for it. Secondly, as we all know a lot of drivers could do with a bit of exercise, so what better way to improve your health and power your toaster/GPS/laptop/mobile etc. and not impinge upon your trucks battery life? Yes, dynamo and a wheel it’s the only way to go!

Mike-C:
Yes, dynamo and a wheel it’s the only way to go!

Unless you count wind power…

Think how much equipment you could run if every time the cab rock (like a wave machine :wink: ) while you were parked in a layby it created a burst of electrical power :smiley: :smiley: :smiley:

Mike-C:
Now i know you’re gonna laugh, but bear with me! Get a small wheel and fit it with some pedals and fit an “old style dynamo” like what was used on pedal cycles.Then wire it to a ciggarette lighter style socket and bobs your uncle. This would have many benefits, the first being it is a renewable energy source and you may even get a grant for it. Secondly, as we all know a lot of drivers could do with a bit of exercise, so what better way to improve your health and power your toaster/GPS/laptop/mobile etc. and not impinge upon your trucks battery life? Yes, dynamo and a wheel it’s the only way to go!

ROFPMSL

Think how much equipment you could run if every time the cab rocks (like a wave machine ) while you were parked in a layby it created a burst of electrical power

does the same apply to caravans??
when its rocking, don`t come knocking :wink: :wink: :laughing:

You’d be amazed what you can do with bicycles and dynamos…

The Rinky ■■■■ Sound System

Lucy:
You’d be amazed what you can do with bicycles and dynamos…

The Rinky ■■■■ Sound System

You need to get a hobby that has nothing to do with the internet

QUICKLY

Either that or stop admitting things from my dodgy hippy (note NOT gypo…we were far dirtier :wink: ) past…which is how I know of this lot. :blush: :blush: :blush:

I’ve seen these guys in action, and it makes for an impressive sight…they’re based just outside Stroud if anyone fancies paying them a visit… :stuck_out_tongue:

Oh, and trust me, it’s LOUD!!![/b] :open_mouth: :open_mouth: :open_mouth: :wink: :stuck_out_tongue: :stuck_out_tongue: :stuck_out_tongue:

Oi stop hijacking this thread :laughing:
I figure on going along the inverter route and getting myself a microwave for the cab
question is how big an inverter do I need, as I was initially gonna get a 1000w version but would that be big enough??

peirre:
we all know that theres a limit to how many accesories you can pull power the ciggie socket before it becomes unsafe, and after a recent chat with a mate got me wondering.
I am contemplating building a distributioin type board that will connect to the batteries via a 175amp anderson connector that is already fitted to the unit to power the tail lift. to allow for possible future expansion of cab accesories, microwave,fridge, kettle etc,mebbe even a digibox for the tele, so that kit can be plugged in/unplugged
I`m confused as to which direction to go, either fix an inverter to said dis-board and use 240 volt kit, or a mixture of 12v, 24v, 240v.
have any of you, ever gone down this route of taking, the power from the batteries, and how have you dealt with the problem, what sort of;
plugs/sockets used
cables used
fuses (size/rating) used

the obvious point is the cost, especially the price of the accesories, as we know that 240 kit is cheaper than 12/24.

REMEMBER
if you have a emergencyswitch,like Tanklorries,that there is fitted in minuscable.
if you build you anything will in case of emergency and after pulling the emergencyswitch the electricity go over your cable.
in that case fix it to the emerge-switch or don’t connect minus anywhere to the body.
the insurencecompany could claim you

spoke to another owner driver this morning about this and he has wired a domestic 13 amp double socket from his battery and then puts 13 amp three pin plugs on all his 12v tackle,including a 300w inverter, reckons it’s never been a problem, boils a kettle and watches tv at the same time etc

I`m gonna go down the route of wiring the inverter to the anderson plug via a fuse

peirre:
I`m gonna go down the route of wiring the inverter to the anderson plug via a fuse

I have had my Inverter hard wires into the fuse box on a spare fuse it is 800 watts, not enough to run a toaster, but I run a laptop, and numerous chargers from it…The bigger problem I have is I run so many things 12/24 & 240 volts that my batteries keep going flat if I don’t run the engine…I have asked my boss for bigger capacity batteries, but he says they cost to much…so I will keep running the engine instead…He seems a bit short sited to me though :unamused:

jimti:
The bigger problem I have is I run so many things 12/24 & 240 volts that my batteries keep going flat if I don’t run the engine…

I’m not surprised.

Drawing 800 watts from 24 volts equates to 33 amps. More amperage than most domestic ovens, and they are on 6mm cable.

Simple formula to calculate requirements:-

Amps = Watts
Volts

And as Fred has mentioned, if the vehicle is used for ADR work then an earth return through the chassis is not permitted.
It must be ‘cabled’ back to the battery.

Krankee:

jimti:
The bigger problem I have is I run so many things 12/24 & 240 volts that my batteries keep going flat if I don’t run the engine…

I’m not surprised.

Drawing 800 watts from 24 volts equates to 33 amps. More amperage than most domestic ovens, and they are on 6mm cable.

Simple formula to calculate requirements:-

Amps = Watts
Volts

And as Fred has mentioned, if the vehicle is used for ADR work then an earth return through the chassis is not permitted.
It must be ‘cabled’ back to the battery.

Ah good old ohms law!

The inverter has a the capacity to provide 800 watts, however I probably rarely draw more that 60 or 80 watts. The 24 volt kettle, 24 volt microwave, 24 volt night heater running all night 24 volt radio etc are what does it
I do run the engine while using the microwave and kettle, but the night heater seems the knock the batteries out