ramone:
I keep repeating myself but here we go how do you get the pile of crap to change up when it should i.e in the green band and change down when it should not when it feels like it also when reversing into tight spots no consistency with the throttle just a jerky reaction the volvo i shift is the best on the market probably because it was designed by volvo for volvos
The only way to get ZF’s auto to change at the right moment to suit the characteristics of the engine is to do it yourself, anything else is pants.
I assume you have PROFI on the gearswitch?, if so it has the option to drive it manually assuming it hasn’t been disabled at the dealership, if it doesn’t have PROFI then its probably auto only but still worth trying to flick manual on and have a go.
Its nearly 3 years since i drove a DAF with this box, but from what i recall the controls were more or less identical to the MAN i’ve got now.
Generally you either have manual or auto, best to select manual via the little column switch before you start off (or once up and running in 12th), if its like mine it’ll probably default to third as start gear whether manual or auto loaded…the MAN usually selects 5th itself as start gear empty unless you’ve approached a hill start and the gear/fuel loading sensors has triggered a lower gear, the same scenario applies if you’re loaded, it might select 2nd instead.
It will also revert to 3rd start gear if you have it manual mode empty, dunno why but there’s no rhyme nor reason to this box and its programming.
If you try and override the auto it doesn’t do as Scanias auto box does and allow you to interfere when necessary yet stay in auto mode (unless you deliberately switch it to manual), the ZF flicks over to manual if you even shift one gear yourself…but it will revert to auto again after about 10/20 seconds which is just about the time you’re changing gear again manually so you’ll get two changes instead and you’ll be issuing as many curses as i have.
So if you try to select manual mode whilst moving in in between gears it will in all likelihood revert to auto after a time, then again it might not depending on which side of the bed the computer from hell got out of bed that morning…there that clear as mud innit.
I suggest you try manual mode for a while loaded, be warned it’s not the most responsive box in the world but if you flick the switch once twice or three times it should change the same amount of gears…we’ve got several identical MAN’s, mine will only allow a maximum of 3 block changes (ie 3rd to 6th), where one of the others allows up to 4, haven’t a clue why.
We run full weights, my loaded regime is start in 3rd if level ground, then 6, then 8 then up each gear…if you check the dash hopefully in manual mode it will show you by little arrows (MAN does this hopefully DAF too) how many gears are available at any given speed, this is especially useful for maximum exhaust braking via manual downshifts.
Ramone, if you’re still reading this you’re probably as daft as i am, and i bet you wish you’d never asked… 
edit…throttle control, it takes a while but you will get the feeling for engaging the clutch smoothly, i too was lurching the thing all the time when i first got it but after a while got the feel for it.
the uphill reverse you have to do is going to be a swine, no two ways about it, the one i have to do its a case of just give it full power and let her go in snail reverse (you must have the two maneuvering modes for forward and reverse on the gearswitch?) and don’t let off.
Hint, wheelspin is what defeats some of our lads at the one we have to do, cos if the vehicle senses wheelspin it cuts the power which disengages the clutch hence overheated clutches after several attempts, so before i do any tight maneuvers i dump the air in the mid lift and turn off traction control (ASR in MAN), that allows full power with a fully engaged clutch.
I think you’ll have it worse than i do cos the DAF with this box has always had an on/off clutch operation.
I’ll shut up now… 