This post is primarily aimed at any of you good folk who are doing class 1 or about to.
When I did my CE a couple of years ago, the unit I passed my test in was an old crappy DAF that didn’t have any air suspension. I expect that the majority of trainers provide a more modern tractor unit with air suspension.
I’m not sure which method the trainers instruct you with as regards hooking up to the trailer, but once you pass your test and start driving in the real world, the following happens;
Reverse under the trailer slightly lower than the trailer and then lift the unit up just short of the pin, and then hook into it.
If you do not do this, and simply leave your mid axle up or your suspension too high, when you strike the leading edge of the trailer, you end up scraping the excess grease on your 5th wheel all over the leading edge of the trailer. When you then do a reverse or screw the trailer around, the susies stretch against this leading edge and spread the grease all over them.
This then ends up on your sleeves, gloves, lower part of your pants when you are on the catwalk etc. Then it can ruin the interior of the wagon or your own car…DONT BE TEMPTED TO BE BONE IDLE.
It takes SECONDS to adjust your suspension, and although I can sort of understand the ’ confidence ’ aspect of helping to avoid missing the pin, if you use the correct lifting method you will be ok. You can always get out of the cab and visually check alignment at ANY time during the connecting process.
Be professional folks and take pride in what you do, it’s what separates kings of the road from ■■■■■ of the road 
It’s a pity there’s so called “instructors” out there not teaching it correctly.
On the other hand, I had an examiner ask me why we teach that method.
So is there any hope?
Pete 
Peter Smythe:
On the other hand, I had an examiner ask me why we teach that method.
Dear Lord, sometimes only a triple
will do
and even He can’t believe it
And thanks God CF doesn’t frequent this forum…
The only time I’ve hooked up a trailer was after I’d done some electrical work on a tractor unit and thought I’d give it a go. An experienced driver supervised the job and he taught me exactly as you describe, saying it avoids smarming the grease up the trailer. I’ll probably never need to do it again but it’s worth knowing 
Air suspension is relatively new to me and have been looking about the net for how to do things ‘right’ in regards to coupling and like the idea of getting the 5th wheel under without the scraping the ■■■■ out of it. Am I right in presuming you use the chassis gizmo box that you get in the cab? i.e: Lower any raised axle, use control box to lower the rear chassis then drive under and stop when plate is under (before the pin), raise up to make contact to underside of trailer (taking some trailer weight) then continue to reverse to connect… select drive height on control box/ dash… then normal double shunt test?
andy_s:
Air suspension is relatively new to me and have been looking about the net for how to do things ‘right’ in regards to coupling and like the idea of getting the 5th wheel under without the scraping the [zb] out of it. Am I right in presuming you use the chassis gizmo box that you get in the cab? i.e: Lower any raised axle, use control box to lower the rear chassis then drive under and stop when plate is under (before the pin), raise up to make contact to underside of trailer (taking some trailer weight) then continue to reverse to connect… select drive height on control box/ dash… then normal double shunt test?
Pretty much spot on but I would however do the tug tests when the back end is lifted before you return the unit to road level, this also helps you have an easier time winding the legs up as there is no weight on them. By doing that, you are pulling against the trailer wheels and not the legs. When you’ve dropped the trailer just do the same but in reverse. Pull away from the pin about a foot or so then drop the air out. You’ll the trailer nose sink till either it stops or your unit stops going down. Then just slowly drive forwards. No bangs, no scrapes. All 100% professional looking.
Radar19:
andy_s:
Air suspension is relatively new to me and have been looking about the net for how to do things ‘right’ in regards to coupling and like the idea of getting the 5th wheel under without the scraping the [zb] out of it. Am I right in presuming you use the chassis gizmo box that you get in the cab? i.e: Lower any raised axle, use control box to lower the rear chassis then drive under and stop when plate is under (before the pin), raise up to make contact to underside of trailer (taking some trailer weight) then continue to reverse to connect… select drive height on control box/ dash… then normal double shunt test?
Pretty much spot on but I would however do the tug tests when the back end is lifted before you return the unit to road level, this also helps you have an easier time winding the legs up as there is no weight on them. By doing that, you are pulling against the trailer wheels and not the legs. When you’ve dropped the trailer just do the same but in reverse. Pull away from the pin about a foot or so then drop the air out. You’ll the trailer nose sink till either it stops or your unit stops going down. Then just slowly drive forwards. No bangs, no scrapes. All 100% professional looking.
Thanks mate, that makes sense.