Air Horn is permanently on Please help!

I have had to pull the wires off my air horn.
It’s the only way to stop it.
Any advise please.
Seems this daf is gonna be the death of me

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HandyGrabAndy:
Seems this daf is gonna be the deaf of me

“My tractor is ■■■■■ all the time”

“I’ve got a honk-on”

“There’s something in this cab that really honks - and it ain’t my in-cab ■■■■■■■!”

Take it to Italy, no one’ll notice.

Maybe the Daf’s feeling ■■■■■.

Find out if it has a fuse?

HandyGrabAndy:
I have had to pull the wires off my air horn.
It’s the only way to stop it.
Any advise please.

I’m guessing this isn’t the manufacturer fitted horn? Did you use a relay for the air horn or just the original wiring? Chances are if you used the original wiring you’ve overloaded it and melted either the switch or a relay if there is one or if you’re really unlucky part of the wiring loom. If you have fitted a relay and supplied it from a separate source then it is likely the relay which is faulty.

Yes it’s not the original!
I managed to snap the original on the tip [emoji17]
God knows how something got up the front of the bumper [emoji2369][emoji1787]
Just a normal 24v Air horn.
We fitted a separate switch from the fuse #18 to the horn and it worked fine.
Has the stalk ever failed or the button on the stalk?

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Dump the air out the tanks that will stop it

Did I post this in the “Sh[t comedy” section by mistake?[emoji1787]
Please forgive my stupidity men. [emoji848]

Crack on Drivers [emoji123][emoji2357]

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HandyGrabAndy:
We fitted a separate switch from the fuse #18 to the horn and it worked fine.
Has the stalk ever failed or the button on the stalk?

Yeah…err no. Just because it works and makes a noise doesn’t mean it’s fine and you tend to find out it isn’t after multiple uses when the overloading of the circuit finally causes sufficient damage to cause a problem. How exactly is it wired up? Do you have a feed going from the fusebox to a relay that connects to the horn and that relay is activated by the original wiring or did you just run the wire from the original horn or tap into that wire and run it directly to the air horn compressor?

The button on the stalk can fail if you wire directly, thus overloading the switch in it. You can eliminate the button by disconnecting the electrical connector on the end of the stalk. If the manufacturer’s wiring for a horn includes a relay that can fail to closed if you put a load on that relay more than it was designed for, for example it is a relay with a 2 amp capacity and you put a 5/10 amp load on it eventually the contacts inside the relay can either burn out or weld together into a single lump. That can be checked by pulling the relay but you can only eliminate the relay when you’ve eliminated the switch.

In short you’re going to have to do some methodical diagnosis, posts on the internet can only suggest the possible causes and how to investigate and not tell you for any certainty what the fault is.

Conor:

HandyGrabAndy:
We fitted a separate switch from the fuse #18 to the horn and it worked fine.
Has the stalk ever failed or the button on the stalk?

Yeah…err no. Just because it works and makes a noise doesn’t mean it’s fine and you tend to find out it isn’t after multiple uses when the overloading of the circuit finally causes sufficient damage to cause a problem. How exactly is it wired up? Do you have a feed going from the fusebox to a relay that connects to the horn and that relay is activated by the original wiring or did you just run the wire from the original horn or tap into that wire and run it directly to the air horn compressor?

The button on the stalk can fail if you wire directly, thus overloading the switch in it. You can eliminate the button by disconnecting the electrical connector on the end of the stalk. If the manufacturer’s wiring for a horn includes a relay that can fail to closed if you put a load on that relay more than it was designed for, for example it is a relay with a 2 amp capacity and you put a 5/10 amp load on it eventually the contacts inside the relay can either burn out or weld together into a single lump. That can be checked by pulling the relay but you can only eliminate the relay when you’ve eliminated the switch.

In short you’re going to have to do some methodical diagnosis, posts on the internet can only suggest the possible causes and how to investigate and not tell you for any certainty what the fault is.

Thanks for the in depth reply [emoji108]
Its wired directly to the original Daf Wires. We just removed the plug and fitted connections to the wires.
It must be something to do with the switch or switch wire as when we ran our own switch it was perfect.

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HandyGrabAndy:

Conor:

HandyGrabAndy:
We fitted a separate switch from the fuse #18 to the horn and it worked fine.
Has the stalk ever failed or the button on the stalk?

Yeah…err no. Just because it works and makes a noise doesn’t mean it’s fine and you tend to find out it isn’t after multiple uses when the overloading of the circuit finally causes sufficient damage to cause a problem. How exactly is it wired up? Do you have a feed going from the fusebox to a relay that connects to the horn and that relay is activated by the original wiring or did you just run the wire from the original horn or tap into that wire and run it directly to the air horn compressor?

The button on the stalk can fail if you wire directly, thus overloading the switch in it. You can eliminate the button by disconnecting the electrical connector on the end of the stalk. If the manufacturer’s wiring for a horn includes a relay that can fail to closed if you put a load on that relay more than it was designed for, for example it is a relay with a 2 amp capacity and you put a 5/10 amp load on it eventually the contacts inside the relay can either burn out or weld together into a single lump. That can be checked by pulling the relay but you can only eliminate the relay when you’ve eliminated the switch.

In short you’re going to have to do some methodical diagnosis, posts on the internet can only suggest the possible causes and how to investigate and not tell you for any certainty what the fault is.

Thanks for the in depth reply [emoji108]
Its wired directly to the original Daf Wires. We just removed the plug and fitted connections to the wires.
It must be something to do with the switch or switch wire as when we ran our own switch it was perfect.

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Just to close this.
It turned out to be a failed Stalk.
90 min self fix with new replacement from North West Trucks Hyton Liverpool

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