dambuster:
Depending on the age/design of the skelly, there’s a few ways of sliding.
In basic terms, the trailer wheels lock, the pins that hold the skelly in place retract, and you push the front section of the skelly, and box, backwards to to position the box doors all the way to the rear for tipping/loading.
Next to the lines connectors you’ll see a ‘spare’ male red airline connector. Take your red line off it’s normal connecter (trailers wheels lock) and put it onto the ‘spare’ connector (pins retract) Then reverse. Job (almost) done. If it’s a heavy box - although I always do it - put your red line back in it’s ‘proper’ place. This will allows the pins to come back out and lock everything in place. It’s sometimes a good idea to dump the air from the trialer suspension, this will lower the box to a loading bay dock-leveller but it will also aid the sliding, particularly if it’s a heavy box.
It’s always best to get yourself as close and as straight as possible before sliding because there’s a severe loss of traction when you’re “slid up” particularly with a heavy box and a 6x2 unit
Quite a few of the newer skellies don’t have that ‘spare valve’ Instead there’ll be an extra button on the skelly (similar to ‘push to shunt’ )
In which case just push the button, and probably the trailer-brake button and ‘push back’ instead of messing about with your lines.
I think that’s it.
Thanks dambuster, First day on containers yesterday and went to collect my trailer on my own. I could not get the trailer brake to release so pushed the shunt button in to get the trailer around to the office. Then like a good boy I went and ASKED! 2 well experienced guys came out and said “Your red air line is connected to the wrong connector”. I did not know about the “extra” connector to “slide” the skeletal. So after I put it on the correct one thus operating my trailer brakes, the guy told me to push the trailer break button on the dash and reverse the unit. I heard and saw the trailer snap back into position. You post has explained it nice and clearly what was happening.
We used to stuff/load containers with all sorts of goods, Container Handling Fork Truck Attachments out of Lancer Boss, even loaded a Flat Rack with parts of a satellite out of Cranfield once, but we’ve never loaded a Complete Container Crane onto one (Full Respect !)
Bloke came into our yard last week with a 20, he shortened it up and tried to do a 180 before backing onto the ramp, he was lucky because as soon as he started to turn he nearly jacknifed, then couldnt get any traction. Spent longer trying to get into position than it would of if he had shortened it when already in line with ramp.
Scouse67:
Bloke came into our yard last week with a 20, he shortened it up and tried to do a 180 before backing onto the ramp, he was lucky because as soon as he started to turn he nearly jacknifed, then couldnt get any traction. Spent longer trying to get into position than it would of if he had shortened it when already in line with ramp.
I am off to do my first day on a container tomorrow, two local tips so should be a doddle. However I have only ever shunted one not driven one, I know I will have a 20 and a 40 foot box so for the 20 I seem to remember them being driving somewhere in the middle and then being moved back on the skeleton so they can be tipped from the back and then I will have to move it back to the middle again, is this right?
So how do I move them on the skeleton? I know there is another hole for the red airline for moving it but cant remember how exactly they work.
Surely this is your employers responsibilty to train you in the use of the equipment you are using. If you are self-employed then you should aquaint yourself with the equipment before you accept the work.
If the container falls off the skeletal do you then blame someone else?
FFS the guy is asking a few legitimate questions - the answers of which may be of interest to several other drivers who’ve never done containers. It’s a forum, get a life.
waddy640:
Surely this is your employers responsibilty to train you in the use of the equipment you are using. If you are self-employed then you should aquaint yourself with the equipment before you accept the work.
If the container falls off the skeletal do you then blame someone else?
I am an agency driver and they never told me it was container work but I know from going in this morning a whole day early what my run is tomorrow I thought it may be flat bed work as they do a lot of steel and I am ok with strapping loads down etc but I dont mind having a go tomorrow and was just looking for info from the guys who have experience so I can turn with an idea of what I am doing. I will ask if I get stuck that is no issue but it would be nice to turn up with some idea of what I am doing
Depending on the age/design of the skelly, there’s a few ways of sliding.
In basic terms, the trailer wheels lock, the pins that hold the skelly in place retract, and you push the front section of the skelly, and box, backwards to to position the box doors all the way to the rear for tipping/loading.
Next to the lines connectors you’ll see a ‘spare’ male red airline connector. Take your red line off it’s normal connecter (trailers wheels lock) and put it onto the ‘spare’ connector (pins retract) Then reverse. Job (almost) done. If it’s a heavy box - although I always do it - put your red line back in it’s ‘proper’ place. This will allows the pins to come back out and lock everything in place. It’s sometimes a good idea to dump the air from the trialer suspension, this will lower the box to a loading bay dock-leveller but it will also aid the sliding, particularly if it’s a heavy box.
It’s always best to get yourself as close and as straight as possible before sliding because there’s a severe loss of traction when you’re “slid up” particularly with a heavy box and a 6x2 unit
Quite a few of the newer skellies don’t have that ‘spare valve’ Instead there’ll be an extra button on the skelly (similar to ‘push to shunt’ )
In which case just push the button, and probably the trailer-brake button and ‘push back’ instead of messing about with your lines.
dont forget to close the doors after you have tipped a 20 before you slide it forward again , i only forgot once and its a bit precarious balancing on a skelly and trying to close a pair of knackered doors
Express Pete:
FFS the guy is asking a few legitimate questions - the answers of which may be of interest to several other drivers who’ve never done containers. It’s a forum, get a life.
My post was equally legitimate. The issue is that it is better to have practical, rather than text book training. As has been stated many times before, the driver is responsible for his vehicle and load. I hope all goes well and that suitable advice is forthcoming if required.
The other point is that the days of drivers helping each other out are rapidly diminishing.
Express Pete:
FFS the guy is asking a few legitimate questions - the answers of which may be of interest to several other drivers who’ve never done containers. It’s a forum, get a life.
My post was equally legitimate. The issue is that it is better to have practical, rather than text book training. As has been stated many times before, the driver is responsible for his vehicle and load. I hope all goes well and that suitable advice is forthcoming if required.
The other point is that the days of drivers helping each other out are rapidly diminishing.
I understand what you are saying but as an agency driver I dont turn much work down! I have never done it but dont mind having a go. In an ideal world they would of course give me an induction but in reality I am only agency so they wont. Having said this is it the agencies responsibility to make sure I can do containers or not? After going in this morning when they told me to and then not meaant to be there I am almost ready to tell em to ■■■■ off anyway but I am going on hols on sat so am trying to get through the week with work intact as I am working fulltime which is a rareaity these days with agencies.
Thanks for your input though
I think the original advice was good, get some inhouse training as it seems that you can soon bend a skelly chassis if you travel with a heavy 6m box in the middle and the pins are not locked or you are running in the wrong position.
We didn’t use sliders as we were on lift tanks and it was much easier to jump on the back with a delivery hose rather than trying to shut doors in the travel position.
Remember, if you don’t know what is in the container, or how it is loaded, treat it as top heavy and drive accordingly, they are often loaded to the top which puts the centre of gravity higher up than a “normal” load and will tip over quite easily if your not careful.
Also, make sure the door is at the back BEFORE you leave the yard!
waddy640:
Surely this is your employers responsibilty to train you in the use of the equipment you are using. If you are self-employed then you should aquaint yourself with the equipment before you accept the work.
If the container falls off the skeletal do you then blame someone else?
I am an agency driver and they never told me it was container work but I know from going in this morning a whole day early what my run is tomorrow I thought it may be flat bed work as they do a lot of steel and I am ok with strapping loads down etc but I dont mind having a go tomorrow and was just looking for info from the guys who have experience so I can turn with an idea of what I am doing. I will ask if I get stuck that is no issue but it would be nice to turn up with some idea of what I am doing
Yes it is shall I ring in sick now?
I’m actually not sure I want to go now sounds a bit dangerous going in blind. As I said I thought I’d be on steal which I’d of been ok with, don’t want to cause any accidents.
Does any one put the trailer in the 20ft running position or do you leave it in the 40ft position like I do?
What would vosa say about it if I got stopped?
joedwyer1:
Does any one put the trailer in the 20ft running position or do you leave it in the 40ft position like I do?
What would vosa say about it if I got stopped?
if there is a designated 20’ running position, it should be used, damage can occur to the trailer if it is not, also, it can also affect the braking system
Express Pete:
FFS the guy is asking a few legitimate questions - the answers of which may be of interest to several other drivers who’ve never done containers. It’s a forum, get a life.
My post was equally legitimate. The issue is that it is better to have practical, rather than text book training. As has been stated many times before, the driver is responsible for his vehicle and load. I hope all goes well and that suitable advice is forthcoming if required.
The other point is that the days of drivers helping each other out are rapidly diminishing.
it looks like they are diminishing due to people like you … he asked a question thats all .
i liked the one where the box falls off , quality content in your post that …
you are one of those forum chaps that seem to think if they have nothing constructive to say you can let rip …
joedwyer1:
Does any one put the trailer in the 20ft running position or do you leave it in the 40ft position like I do?
What would vosa say about it if I got stopped?
I’ve started recently to always put in the 20’ position. But then again I sometimes forget or can’t be arsed if it’s an empty.
Vosa might have fishing expedition somewhere along the lines of “not using it in it’s intended configuration/position” - maybe. But if you loo at the labels most seem to suggest that the 20’ pin holes are for “laden” and sometimes for “heavy” boxes.
I thought it may be flat bed work as they do a lot of steel and I am ok with strapping loads down etc but I dont mind having a go tomorrow and was just looking for info from the guys who have experience so I can turn with an idea of what I am doing. I will ask if I get stuck that is no issue but it would be nice to turn up with some idea of what I am doing 
