Whats the best one to get as my last truck had both 12 and 24 but the new truck only has 24v sockets , i will be running a fridge 24/7 , and then sat nav etc are 12 volts
nedflanders:
the new truck only has 24v sockets ,
Why do they do this? Don’t they do any research before they design a truck?
Are you sure you need 12v for the sat nav? Not saying try in 24v, but any tomtom adapter I have had has been fine. Worst case use a usb adapter that is ok for 24v.
The only time I can think of I needed 12v was for a little coolbox I have which is nice for hot weather day shifts when there is no fridge. My big coolbox is fine on 24v.
Check the voltage requirements for you devices, and also get one of those LED cigarette socket voltmeters off ebay for a couple of quid, it will save you frying any of your kit if your uncertain of the output voltage of any supply socket
get a decent truck with a fridge in it
I charge sat nav and phone through 24v no problem.
Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk
Harry Monk:
nedflanders:
the new truck only has 24v sockets ,Why do they do this? Don’t they do any research before they design a truck?
The two batteries (2x 12V) create 24v circuit. I guess there’s enough appliances that natively use, or at least that have adapters contained within them (or 12v droppers supplied) that can cope with this. Many car cigarette charger appliances can support 12v and 24v now. Cost cutting crossed with changing technologies I guess.
Yeah i checked as thought all three sockets couldnt be 24v but they all are
peirre:
Check the voltage requirements for you devices, and also get one of those LED cigarette socket voltmeters off ebay for a couple of quid, it will save you frying any of your kit if your uncertain of the output voltage of any supply socket
Your correct the tom tom is both 12/24 v , but the coolbox is def 12v , as a matter of interest what is the cost of a 24v coolbox if not much difference in new coolbox and that of a convertor it may work out cheaper for me to just buy a new one thats 24v , and stick the 12v on ebay , but then i presume the 24v one wont work in the car on 12v
njl:
Are you sure you need 12v for the sat nav? Not saying try in 24v, but any tomtom adapter I have had has been fine. Worst case use a usb adapter that is ok for 24v.The only time I can think of I needed 12v was for a little coolbox I have which is nice for hot weather day shifts when there is no fridge. My big coolbox is fine on 24v.
nedflanders:
Your correct the tom tom is both 12/24 v , but the coolbox is def 12v , as a matter of interest what is the cost of a 24v coolbox if not much difference in new coolbox and that of a convertor it may work out cheaper for me to just buy a new one thats 24v , and stick the 12v on ebay , but then i presume the 24v one wont work in the car on 12v
I have one of these :
halfords.com/motoring/trave … 91077.html
It’s not the size you might want to take in and out daily though.
I used to have a Roadtek 24v to 12v dropper which runs at 8amp max (should be alright for a coolbox / fridge). It was alright but a little noisy as theres a fan which runs all the time. Only costs about 15 quid.
You can buy fanless ones which are bigger, although not tried them. Seen them higher amp rated, but not sure if they ran off cig lighter / hella socket.
I guess there isn’t a switch to convert to 12v? As for 24v in a car, won’t run or very unlikely.
trevHCS:
I used to have a Roadtek 24v to 12v dropper which runs at 8amp max (should be alright for a coolbox / fridge). It was alright but a little noisy as theres a fan which runs all the time. Only costs about 15 quid.You can buy fanless ones which are bigger, although not tried them. Seen them higher amp rated, but not sure if they ran off cig lighter / hella socket.
I guess there isn’t a switch to convert to 12v? As for 24v in a car, won’t run or very unlikely.
There won’t be, the only reason 12v is provided, is if they have installed their own dropper in from factory. As I say, two batteries in each vehicle create 24v circuits. You won’t get away with running 24v on 12v, though it won’t break it. But running 12v on 24v circuits will fry something, unless the adapter has been designed to take 12v through to 24v, and will be labelled as such.
I’m fairly experienced with double decker bus wiring, which throws up these sorts of issues all the time. Bit easier then though as you’re not having to take devices in and out all of the time. It does make sense why a truck builder would similarly not provide 12v as standard anymore. With all the hardware most operators will chuck in, for the most part, they will just wire their own droppers in as required with bigger current flows. Cigarette lighters are old money really. GPS inbuilt or on your mobile, and there’s more than likely now a USB slot somewhere to charge your phone. Heck, even USB fridges are starting to emerge, though rather gutless atm.
The question for providing suitable power should therefore not be aimed at truck designer, rather the operators who can’t spend a few quid to wire up inverters.
This dropper is good bought off of amazon has 2 usb ports aswell and compact… Sealey DC2412 Converter, 24V to 12V DC, 15A
Harry Monk:
nedflanders:
the new truck only has 24v sockets ,Why do they do this? Don’t they do any research before they design a truck?
usual cost-cutting I expect. That is ■■■■ poor though, still just as much demand for 12v power. My first lorry (a clapped out s reg scania 94) had at least one 