Hello people,
A quick set up question - any advice gratefully received (I’m about as clever with electrics as my dog…).
Boss man has recently got me a Scania R470, really happy with etc etc. The previous firm had it quite well kitted out but the microwave was removed before we got it (surprise, surprise).
The wiring is still in place and ends in a black connector in the middle compartment above the windscreen. I don’t really want to fork out £500 plus on a 24 volt microwave and I was wondering if I could use the existing wiring and install a 24 volt inverter (1500 watt to run a 750 watt microwave I was thinking…). I could then buy a cheap 240 volt microwave and maybe a toaster etc.
Is this possible/advisable or not? If I went down this route are there things I need to be aware of or is the whole thing a bad idea?
Many thanks in advance.
Nigel.
I would need to know what the 24v microwave that was removed was rated at watts wise before I’d be happy to consider it.
In theory provided the power being drawn with the inverter set-up, at any one time, is roundabout what it was with the old 24v microwave did it’d be ok. Having said that, I’m really not a fan of wiring high-rated inverters to anything other than the anderson plug.
I doubt very highly that the wiring would be rated enough to cope with the current draw of the inverter. A 24v microwave would draw nothing like that - a 24v 720W microwave would draw around 25A max, a 950W one 40A. A 1500W inverter as a rule of thumb would draw around 75A on peak load so the cable already there would be less than half the gauge needed for a 1500W inverter and if you tried to run the inverter at even half its maximum load you’d probably melt the cables and set the wiring on fire.
1500W inverters with the length of cable run from the battery you’d have typically need cables with the conducting core about 7mm or 1/3 of an inch in diameter. Basically if the cable doesn’t look about half an inch thick for the positive and same again for the negative or an inch thick if both positive and negative are in one wire I wouldn’t risk it.
I avoided the wire cross-sectional area advice as the problem there is even if it is some nice meaty cable it may not be connected to the power in such a meaty way.
Basically provided what’s being run off this existing socket doesn’t want more current than the appliance it was originally designed for it will be fine, there will be extra power requirements from power losses in the inverter but it would probably cope.
If you want a more powerful microwave than the previous one or to run a 1500W inverter at its max capacity you need it wired directly to the batteries, by the shortest possible route, ideally with a megafuse as well. If you go via the anderson plug and it was professionally fitted chances are it’ll already be fused.
Buy a deawoo QT microwave from amazon or ebay.its standard size 10 inch turntable but the cabinet is a bit smaller than most others.it draws 850/920w when cooking with the engine runnng.i have a russell hobs travel kettle which draws 1250w and boils in 3 mins a tesco value toaster which is 700w.the inverter is a 2000w/4000w surge bought from ebay for £165 and it has an led meter so these figures are acurate
Thank you all for the advice - it’s very gratefully received.
I think that when it next goes in for inspection, I’ll hand our fitter an Anderson set up and some cash and ask him to install for me with a view to putting the inverter under the bunk to keep it as close as possible to the battery.
I will be able to sleep at night knowing it’s done properly that way.
I like europleb’s ideas on the kit too.
Thanks again people and stay safe.
Nigel.
europleb:
and it has an led meter so these figures are acurate
I don’t even know where to begin to explain what is wrong with that statement. Unless it comes with a NIST calibration certificate it is at best an indication and one which is probably quite out. If the meter is just different coloured LEDs to indicate the power it is even more of a chocolate fireguard than one that shows numbers.
Conor:
europleb:
and it has an led meter so these figures are acurateI don’t even know where to begin to explain what is wrong with that statement. Unless it comes with a NIST calibration certificate it is at best an indication and one which is probably quite out. If the meter is just different coloured LEDs to indicate the power it is even more of a chocolate fireguard than one that shows numbers.
The wattage on kettle makers plate on the bottom matches the four figure meter reading exactly as does the plate on the oven and the toaster, i"m assuming the figures to be be about right.its obvious from your statement however that you know best and I feel an apology must be issued to the 1000"s of members on this forum that I have obviously misinformed.ALL MEMBERS PLEASE IGNORE THE MAKERS STATED POWER CONSUMPTION FOR THEIR PRODUCTS AND IF YOU HAVE ONE OF THE MORE EXPENSIVE INVERTERS WITH A FOUR FIGURE OUTPUT METER THAT MATCHES THE MAKERS STATED WATTAGE EXACTLY PLEASE STOP AT ONCE AS IT WILL WIIL MELT AS ALL IS MADE OF CHOCOLATE
I bought my connectors and Anderson plug kits etc from a firm near us in Shropshire called ADESAS below. They’re really reasonable and helpful. Got my cable, Andersons, Ring connectors etc from them and can’t fault them 
go for a 1500 watt normal 3000watt peak inverter, your 240 volt 700 watt microwave will pull 1150 watts momentarily on start up, avoid toasters they are around 1400 watt at 240 volt… too big for the inverter. NOTE your truck batteries will be dead in less that an hour of continuous running of your microwave!
Innocent:
NOTE your truck batteries will be dead in less that an hour of continuous running of your microwave!
Christ! What are you cooking? A Tortoise?
the maoster:
Innocent:
NOTE your truck batteries will be dead in less that an hour of continuous running of your microwave!Christ! What are you cooking? A Tortoise?
You owe me a new keyboard for that, this ones just been soaked in coffee! 