Bking:
And I changed 8 truck wheels last week.Not a sign of a torque wrench and much to my suprise not a wheel lost.
Thats the difference between an “expert” such as yourself and some grease monkey like me.
I know what im doing unlike some waste of space such as yourself.
Another parasite eh
You asked a question. I answered it. How the [zb] does that make me an “expert”, a “waste of space” or a “parasite”?
It’s hardly surprising that you are on pre-mod, when that is the way you react to a poster answering a question you asked.
For your information
I’ve been a grease monkey. I’ve also run the servicing bay for a large fleet and did the 6 weekly inspections for that same fleet.
I also worked in a tyre bay for quite some time, changing among other things tyres off trucks with split rim wheels. I took the wheel off the truck, changed the tyre and refitted the wheel. 8 truck tyres was a mornings job sheet. I didn’t have a torque wrench and never had a wheel come off either.
I don’t make any claims to be an expert in anything, but it seems I know a bit more than you in quite a few areas.
These days I take things easy and drive for a small local haulier, transporting local goods to Germany and Switzerland.
Nothing parasitic about me boy. I’ve earned my keep since I was 12 years old.
You know Simon my heart ■■■■■ bleeds.See you take things "easy"Thats nice.
See I work 60 or 72 hours a week Im 58 and Im still changing wheels,still changing clutches still takin ■■■■ of some dik driver who thinks Im a piece of crap “grease monkey” .I know more about "his " job than that SOB will ever learn.
And this cretin has the audacity( something like yourself) to try to tell me “my job” See I can go and repair a truck yet most of these professional “drivers” cant wipe their own ■■■
And you sound just like one of these unskilled whining ■■■ holes.
the maoster:
Not doubting the veracity of what you were told Keef, but did you see any official paperwork regarding this? Imo this is a bit dubious and if it happened and if said driver willingly coughed up would you please forward him my e mail addy and tell him that I’m the deposed King of Nigeria and would like to deposit 60 million US dollars into his account.
What exactly constitutes loose wheelnuts in a DVSA inspectors eyes? Hand tight maybe? We can all manage to tighten hot nuts (ooh err missus) with a scaffold bar and 15 stone on the end of it. I remain slightly dubious however.
Generally it will be if he taps it with his little hammer and it shows visual signs of movement or there are obvious other visual signs it’s not clearly exerting a clamping force on the rim, like a gap behind the nut.
In my view one operation failing that VOSA have never shown any interest in rectifying is, in my view, it should be obligatory that some notification is left for drivers if any wheel has been disturbed recently due to maintenance or tyre changes so there is an opportunity for drivers to pay special attention to that wheel.
They will say drivers should always be checking properly but it’s stupidly unrealistic. It’s similar to how if you make inspections too close together, to the point little occurs between inspections, things actually get missed as a going through the motions attitude sets in.
Loads of people on here don’t like to hear it and they’ll go on about the time they spotted a slow puncture but the reality is very little real safety critical defects come via driver’s daily checks and many, many trucks go in for inspections and glaring safety critical defects are found it’s hard to see how they would be missed.
When they tap nuts with a hammer it is not to see if the nut moves .
They are listening to the sound, if a nut gives a dud sound it will be loose.
I used to work in a garage and when servicing a truck, loose nuts (not just on the wheel)where easily identified while tapping with a hammer.
The only way a driver can check a wheel nut visually is to look for rust marks leading from the nut
Glad you dont work in a garage no more.
You know ■■■■ all my friend
Bking:
You know Simon my heart [zb] bleeds.See you take things "easy"Thats nice.
See I work 60 or 72 hours a week Im 58 and Im still changing wheels,still changing clutches still takin [zb] of some dik driver who thinks Im a piece of crap “grease monkey” .I know more about "his " job than that SOB will ever learn.
And this cretin has the audacity( something like yourself) to try to tell me “my job” See I can go and repair a truck yet most of these professional “drivers” cant wipe their own ■■■
And you sound just like one of these unskilled whining ■■■ holes.
I’ve got the “audacity” to tell you yer making a ■■■ of yourself. That’ll be your 58 years experience making it easy for you. Carry on.
hutpik:
0Hi all.We have punctures and exploding tyres on a daily basis due to the nature of the work,we run at 50-60ton gross all the time.I don’t think there is more than a couple of torque wrenches in the whole mine and these are used for LKAB’s 120 ton trucks not the subbies.We change wheels and put oil on the threads as a matter of course.We tighten nuts with an air or Electric gun then finish by hand.During the shift we tighten 2 more times by hand and we never have had problems.The only time problems occur is when lazy drivers overtighten nuts using the mechanical aids instead of tightening by hand,then the studs stretch and eventually break or the splines in the hus strip .
Simon:
Lbs/ft would be pounds foot.
By nt/ mtr I take it you meant Nm which is Newton metres.
Pounds / feet darling its all in the units X
Torque is a measure of the force applied multiplied by the distance so which way round it is written is of no importance but the convention is to use the force first…Nm or lb.ft
The way you have written it implies force divided by distance and is not correct, you may be good at your job but please do not try to get too technical, stick to what you know.
last company I worked for, tyre fitters used to come in, change a tyre and leave a sign to say check torque after 50 kms but didn’t provide torque wrench to do it. Instant defect report and wagon was driven around until correct mileage and then tyre fitter was the recalled to do the job.
"Torque is a rotational force. It is measured in units of force multiplied by a unit of distance. For example, a foot pound is one pound of force at a distance of one foot. It can give you an indication of how strong an engine is (500 ft-lbs is a LOT of torque) or how tight you need to have a bolt. The lug nuts on your wheels need to be about 100 ft-lbs, the bolts on your suspension twice that or more. "
Our companies policy is for the tyre fitter to torque the wheels ,then wait 30 mins and re torque ,times are all logged by the PDA device you sign afterwards ,so no cheating
Hi All, extremely wet behind the ears as a member on here so please be gentle but been reading the forums for a very long time! Feel I really have to add to this post from a garage point of view…I am a time served HGV/LGV fitter/mechanic/technician depending on what garage I’ve worked in and over my 30 years in the job(inc a 5 year apprenticeship),even I am surprised at the difference in working practices from garage to garage which is why I have chosen to post on this topic. Although there are industry standards regarding wheel nut fitment and subsequent re torque my own experience over the years has been wide and varied. Anything from ‘oh just whack em up with the big gun’ to ‘DO NOT use any type of air tool on wheel nuts’.
When training as an apprentice many moons ago using conical right and left hand thread wheel nuts, the nuts where oiled with engine oil and tightened to the specified torque. Over the years as spigot mounted wheels have become the norm, I choose (regardless of where I am working to go with the tried and tested method that has NEVER failed for me…ensure there is no dirt or corrosion on mating surfaces of wheel to hub, if so clean with rough emery cloth. Smear a thin film of copper grease on the rim of the wheel where it’s in contact with the hub, squirt a small drop of oil on the threads of the nut and in between the nut and the washer fit the wheel and use 1/2" air gun to run the nuts on the stud but not hammer them up tight. Set torque wrench to specified torque and torque wheel nuts until wrench cracks and no more. Zip tie a reminder tag on key ring for driver to return to workshop at end of shift or next day for re torque and record in ‘wheel replacement log’ in garage office. Sign off record when wheel is re torqued.
If the wheel is changed offsite by tyre company I always back off wheel nuts and retorque for my own piece of mind. I have never had a wheel nut fail using this method plus we have a record when wheels are changed to satisfy any irregularities in tyre depths between inspections.
Some garages frown upon using oil on wheel nuts but if there is dirt/damage on studs and wheel nut is not tightened all the way on this could give false torque reading. If the torque wrench ‘cracks off’ before nut turns then it is already too tight and damage to stud is possible as mentioned in previous posts.
Sorry if I sound a little conceited on my first post guys that certainly is NOT my intention! I am old school when it comes to correct working practice.
Simon:
Lbs/ft would be pounds foot.
By nt/ mtr I take it you meant Nm which is Newton metres.
Pounds / feet darling its all in the units X
FOOT not feet. It’s the measurement of the torque created by one pound force acting at a distance of ONE foot. One = singular not plural so foot not feet.
Force times distance. A moment arm. “Force” in this case being expressed in steak and ale Fred Dibner workable units of the pound (instead of Newton/meter). The further out in distance of feet along a metal arm you take your 1lb of “force” the more torque applied at the fulcrum.
I have to do quite complex moment arm calcs loading the 747 and it’s all kilograms multiplied by a reference (instead of using inches to avoid silly numbers). A negative reference means its in front of the centre of gravity, a positive behind the c of g. Like having a fat kid vs two skinny kids either side of a see saw. Even though it may not balance, one counters the other. Torque applied to wheel nuts is the same in essence whatever units but with positive units only, unless you have someone pulling the other side against you on a wheel brace. Force times the distance. “give me a lever long enough and I’ll move the globe”
Simon:
Lbs/ft would be pounds foot.
By nt/ mtr I take it you meant Nm which is Newton metres.
Pounds / feet darling its all in the units X
FOOT not feet. It’s the measurement of the torque created by one pound force acting at a distance of ONE foot. One = singular not plural so foot not feet.
Freight Dog:
Force times distance. A moment arm. “Force” in this case being expressed in steak and ale Fred Dibner workable units of the pound (instead of Newton/meter). The further out in distance of feet along a metal arm you take your 1lb of “force” the more torque applied at the fulcrum.
I have to do quite complex moment arm calcs loading the 747 and it’s all kilograms multiplied by a reference (instead of using inches to avoid silly numbers). A negative reference means its in front of the centre of gravity, a positive behind the c of g. Like having a fat kid vs two skinny kids either side of a see saw. Even though it may not balance, one counters the other. Torque applied to wheel nuts is the same in essence whatever units but with positive units only, unless you have someone pulling the other side against you on a wheel brace. Force times the distance. “give me a lever long enough and I’ll move the globe”
Give me a lever long enough and a fulcrum on which to place it and I shall move the world.
Archimedes
Simon:
Lbs/ft would be pounds foot.
By nt/ mtr I take it you meant Nm which is Newton metres.
Pounds / feet darling its all in the units X
FOOT not feet. It’s the measurement of the torque created by one pound force acting at a distance of ONE foot. One = singular not plural so foot not feet.
this paddy trailer lost his wheel nuts one morning at 4 am ,one wheel knocked a hole in my sump