2 x 1 tonne pallets side by side only requires 1 tonne of restraint of sideways movement. (50%)
As constantine points out the capacity of the hook/ring and/or ratchet is normally considerably less than that of the strap itself. BS of strap indentified by number of stitch lines, 1 line = 1 tonne.
Firstly Mac12 is 100% right 
company should be providing you with the correct restraints, as its their lorries and loads.
However if you’re really flush and want to buy them no-one can stop you…however always remember if they are defective and something happens and you’ve supplied them…the onus on liability will be apportioned accordingly!
It took me about 3 weeks with previous company to convince them to buy me more stronger chains. (13mm thick diameter - about £500). This was to hold our 25t/21m long reach excavator suitably so as not to stretch any chains, which may of happened to our 10mm chains.
So don’t give up on your first attempt of asking for something. Don’t go guns ablazing/shouting/■■■■■■ etc. Speak with your TM and say what you think you need. Supply the evidence usually just some really basic maths to back up what you are asking for.
Most importantly always politely remind them if YOU ■■■■ up and lose a load they’ll be joining you in the dock with all the relevant fines and/or prison sentences 
Smartens most of the spineless TM’s up, the real hardened ones who’ve been dodgy for years, you might struggle with
C
Driveroneuk:
2 x 1 tonne pallets side by side only requires 1 tonne of restraint of sideways movement. (50%)
Above is completely correct on sideways movement, though some DCPC trainers say you’ve got to restrain 100% all the way round 
However VOSA and most European studies only say you’ve got to worry about 50% for rearwards and sideways movement and 100% forward movements. So if their scientific tests say that, that’s the minimum you’ve got to aspire too. They’re the requirements BUT you can provide more restraint if you so feel inclined, don’t be afraid if you want to. 
If I remember most curtain artics carry upto 26t in pallet form on a usual trailer (might be wrong?). That’s a lot of load to secure in reality, especially from joining you in the cab.
But with wheeled vehicles I’d personally go with 100% forwards and 100% backwards restraint. Sideways controversially…I don’t tend to be overly fussed, rubber tends to provide grip on steel and timber. 
Ultimately whatever load I carry, I’m always worried about stopping 100% of the load joining me in the cab though. Everything else is secondary, I provide enough to hopefully prevent it joining the public on their laps though, but that’s it.
However I’ve worked with some curtain twitchers who swear blind by those new “stealth straps” and rely on the curtain only and those “wardrobe straps” aren’t much use either but better than nothing Can’t say I’ve been convinced by the (“Stealth Strap” or No strap) argument personally, but others in the game might know better than me though. 
Those same “curtain twitchers” used to take mick out of me strapping all of the load to the way I wanted. Thing was I could get the straps over, while fork lift or telehandler drivers loaded and I carried on down the trailer.
I’d still be finished with curtains drawn in same time, as those that sat and done nothing while it was loaded and pulled curtains at the end. They then regarded that hidden unsecured load wasn’t going to be a problem in the event of a muppet screwing up the journey.
I’d be regarded as the unprofessional one for securing to the chassis etc, but each to their own
Ps I do know some sites have some strange rules that you can’t be near the lorry while its being loading, but that won’t protect you in the event of an accident if you don’t restrain the load. 
Again what do I know!
Driveroneuk:
As constantine points out the capacity of the hook/ring and/or ratchet is normally considerably less than than that of the strap itself. BS of strap indentified by number of stitch lines, 1 line = 1 tonne.
Always remember what you’re hooking up to as well. As I’ve worked on some low loader trailers and rigids where the D rings or lift rings couldn’t hold the load that the chain was being threaded through if you happened to check your specific trailer’s specification. Shocking but definitely happens because the people in the office specifying any trailer usually haven’t got a clue what loads they might want to carry in the future or even what will be carried on the back sometimes
On some curtainsiders with really rusty raves, I’ve gone to the main chassis trailer to secure a load properly…Blimey it really sounds like I work with some dodgy trailers on the road.
Based on my trailer descriptions above, I ain’t no angel. But I’ll let you base your restraining decisions on your own judgement and conscience (just don’t be swayed by others or ■■■■ taking who may actually not have a ■■■■■■■ clue what they are doing!)
Just remember if something was to ever go wrong, are you happy to take the rap for a shed load? Even though you may not of been responsible for the intial chain of events if involved in an accident. You’re an easy target to find if you lost your load during a course of an accident and the law will hold it against you, hence making their job easier to put more of the blame on you
C
*Edits are because my grammer is so poor!!!
As a matter of interest the EN 12642 L standard says (from memory) that lashing points of 1t working load limit should be fitted every 0.7 - 1.2 metres on vehicles that carry under 12t and 2t (preferably 4t) on vehicles carrying over 12t. These must be fitted in pairs.
So in most cases the lashing points are somewhat lacking.
Of course these are minimums and specialist low loaders etc should be better
Get loaded, evaluate load, throw straps over, hook to chassis or side rail, never rope hooks unless its catching the floor board cross members - job done.
Its all about common sense.
10m length is what you want, does everything unless its a full height and over width combo.
As for protectors: these are usually policy by the place your load is from. If in doubt just ask them.
For straps breaking, iv found this usually happens due to over tightening where by the load is fractionally lifted by the strap or most common, a vibrating strap. Putting a single twist in solves the latter.
ajt:
Putting a single twist in solves the latter.
And the strap manufacturers will tell you they must not be twisted as this places excessive strain on the edges and premature failure at maximum load
shep532:
As a matter of interest the EN 12642 L standard says (from memory) that lashing points of 1t working load limit should be fitted every 0.7 - 1.2 metres on vehicles that carry under 12t and 2t (preferably 4t) on vehicles carrying over 12t. These must be fitted in pairs.So in most cases the lashing points are somewhat lacking.
Of course these are minimums and specialist low loaders etc should be better
You’d be suprised with some of the Charlton bodies for rigids what their lashing point ratings were. Even a Broshuis trailer spec I’ve used was poor. Remembered one tying down coupling shearing off after a chain had been released…thank ■■■■ it had held for the previous 4 hours driving! Didn’t even think that would even be possible until saw it with own eyes.
Best trailer was a King. It allowed us to fit shackles up to 6.5t SWL both sides.
The 6.5t SWL of a bow shackle was only for lifting so it’s MBS (Maximum Breaking Strength) was 6 times greater than that for each shackle to be loaded up to - 39t each (think they have to be a minimum of 5 times or greater) .
I thiought it was a brilliant design for a trailer, looked slightly untidy and also there is division that side loading a bow shackle does reduce it strength not as much as a D shackle, but they say it does. However I never noticed it with my tiny loads
C
shep532:
ajt:
Putting a single twist in solves the latter.And the strap manufacturers will tell you they must not be twisted as this places excessive strain on the edges and premature failure at maximum load
What would they know, they only make them . When you’re working with them day in day out you find what works best
ajt:
shep532:
ajt:
Putting a single twist in solves the latter.And the strap manufacturers will tell you they must not be twisted as this places excessive strain on the edges and premature failure at maximum load
What would they know, they only make them
Now there’s a true driver - knows best
Er,probably the answer is obvious, but can anyone tell me h.ow to keep the hook on the strap attached to the trailer beam when walking round the truck go pull the strap taut before attaching the rachet?
The number of times I pull the strap and the hook comes flying over the top drives me bonkers.
Perhaps my million pound invention for dragons den is magnetic strap hooks!
puggy:
Er,probably the answer is obvious, but can anyone tell me h.ow to keep the hook on the strap attached to the trailer beam when walking round the truck go pull the strap taut before attaching the rachet?The number of times I pull the strap and the hook comes flying over the top drives me bonkers.
Perhaps my million pound invention for dragons den is magnetic strap hooks!
Technically, some on here will say you shouldn’t use the side of the trailer, use a proper hook that pops up or the chassis, but in front of the fifth wheel, put the hook on the rail with some slack hanging down, then a sharp pull on the other side should allow it to catch, just tension the ratchet, go back round & give the hook a good kick to make sure it’s home.
This advise has been brought to you via Viking Industries Ratchet Strap Division.
Martin, puggy is trying to avoid having to walk back around the trl to refasten the hook. It does become rather annoying by the time you’ve done it a dozen or so times especially in the rain. Few trailers have recessed floor lashing points and if they do are often covered by pallets. Some makes of trailer the side raves are designed to be fastened to, these are great as the the hook usually goes in a hole and so can’t drop off.
puggy I feel for you. The job would be very much quicker with 2 people - if drivers helped each other like they used to or companies employed a yard boy to assist. The only thing I can suggest that sometimes works is only throw over enough length of strap to be able to reach it. Only pull it down just enough to hook on, as it often the weight of the excess length of strap pulling downwards (even though it isn’t much) that pulls the hook off.
There are some very simple and easy solutions that would make the job much easier, for instance putting corner boards on pallets before they are shrink wrapped.
Which way do you guys coil your straps, hook inside or out?
Hook in baby, goes over the top so much easier…however throwing over potato boxes was a ■■■■■■■ nightmare as only had a 6 inch gap under roof of trailer proper patience tester
On plant when I throw over something (like a small excavator arm) the hook is ready to pull back onto the rave 9 out of ten times successfully.
However I’m never throwing over pallets anymore so I can see it easily if its caught or not from where I’m standing…I’m cheating aren’t I
Easy to do with small pallets too but on the few curtains I’ve moved I’ve always had to do like Martin said and secure on raves or big stuff to chassis .
Throw them all over, let them all hang slightly short, like Driveroneuk, pull down gently to rave or chassis,all the way along. Go back round and secure all the way down…hopefully only having to go to opposite side once…
C
Hook out, hook it on to the eye, chassis or rave (if the other two aren’t available) & throw it over, nine times out of ten you’ve only got to walk round once (perhaps that’s why I need to loose a bit of weight [emoji5]️)
If you are hooking to the rave - hold the hook in place with your free hand, while you throw the strap over with your dominant hand. This will stop the strap slipping down as the strap goes over. Once it is over and down the other side, it will hold itself.
Reversing the cogs on pushup ratchets turns them into pull down ratchets. 1 pair of vice grips is all you need.and a hammer
Strapmaster at Stoke on Trent seem best to us;
strapmaster.co.uk/ 01538-753723
We have standardised on 10m/5t single claw straps with 300mm of webbing on the ratchet end. They can also print your name on the webbing for a minimum order of 1000m (100 straps)
I use Damar in Chesterfield ,they will make the webbing on the ratchet to whatever lenght you need at no extra cost .
Have you checked out amazon or Ebay
There are some good bargains on those - search for say - 50mm 8 metres 5 tonnes - for example