cooper1203:
issue solved i think. It seams it was a case of too quick and poor understanding of how it operates. I was under the imprestion that the range change happened when you depressed the clutch not when you were in nuteral. As soon as i slowed everything down and did one thing at a time i could pin point at what point i heard the clunk. then everything else fell into place. it will just take some getting used to
The splitter is generally preselected and interlocked with and actuated by the clutch ( but not a fuller the splitter can’t be preselected because it’s linked to/actuated by the …accelerator pedal.
The range change is always actuated by the shift through neutral.
It’s why I generally preferred an all splitter type box like the old ZF 12 speed or the Spicer to a range change like the 9 speed Fuller or the range change and splitter hybrids like the 13 speed Fuller or 16 speed eco split and Merc type boxes.
Although the shift quality of the Fuller negated its downsides in that regard.
In the case of the twin split they seem to have substituted the low range of the 13 (12) speed Fuller for two splits on each gear turning it into an all splitter type not range and splitter hybrid type.
We also had an interesting discussion regarding Scania range change v splitter types in which some, including me, who’d only driven one type didn’t even know that Scania did both different types.
Glad that you have things sussed, the power of trucknet and all of that. When I ppassed my car test back in 69 the instructor said “clutches are on the way out, it will soon be automatic only”. Well he got that wrong, but some of the younger folks are passing tests in auto wagons nowadays. It stands to reason that they will need further instruction on three pedal vehicles.
jakethesnake:
Carryfast:
cooper1203:
jakethesnake:
Sounds like a range change box to me, why do you mention a splitter switch?
From what you say it sounds like you are not changing gear at the correct time ,ie wrong speed for the particular gear.
If it is a range change box you should flick the switch before moving the stick rather than as you move it.
I presume it is a synchromesh box therefore double de clutching may not help and may cause damage I was once told.
Then again I am way out of touch with the latest boxes so can’t be certain. Practice usually helps, in a yard or a quiet road till you sort your problem out
rather than causing problems for others.
I mentioned the splitter to identify the box and also wondering if i should be using it to help gear changes but decided that was stupid so didnt mention it. im fairly sure (in my inexperience) that it is a splitter switch because i was in 8th and flipped the switch and nothing happened till i disengaged /reengaged the clutch at which point the engine rpm went up and speed remained the same. reverse happened when i switched it the other way
The splitter has nothing to do with the the range change they’ll be two seperate different switches or slap stick type range change and a switched splitter control.
It’s obviously less work for the range synchroniser to upshift from high split 4th (8th) to low split 5th (9th) all preselected and actuated automatically through neutral.
For once I actually totally agree with you. 
Ironically from memory I seem to have driven the unicorns of preselectable clutch actuated spec splitter Fuller 13 speed.
Also Fuller 13 speed MAN F90,
non EPS spec Merc Powerliner and Scania 112 with 10 speed splitter, without realising how rare they all were at the time.
Also from memory did double declutch range change shifts but taking care that the range change had gone through cleanly first with the clutch disengaged before engaging the clutch in neutral to synchronise the gear.
I guess that there would also be range change synchronisation issues if the range change is attempted at the wrong road speeds such as confusing a range change with just a split shift.
My old Volvo F12 had a splitter and range change plus overdrive giving a total of 18 gears with the option of 4 reverse !!! 
jakethesnake:
cooper1203:
issue solved i think. It seams it was a case of too quick and poor understanding of how it operates. I was under the imprestion that the range change happened when you depressed the clutch not when you were in nuteral. As soon as i slowed everything down and did one thing at a time i could pin point at what point i heard the clunk. then everything else fell into place. it will just take some getting used to
Glad you are making progress. Like most trying to use a gearbox like that without being shown is not so easy. Like driving and reversing trailers some pick it up quicker than others.
Don’t ever try an eton twin splitter if you think that’s hard.
And yet, the same principle applies. If, like me, you were made aware of the TwinSplit’s idiosyncrasies before you started driving one, thus avoiding the rookie error of clanging it into the first gear cos you didn’t depress the clutch that extra inch at standstill and drawing the attention of every old salt in the yard who will wait eagerly for the next mistake, you’ll get on fine with it once you’ve mastered the art.
I often wonder if some of the older generation of drivers are inadvertently partly to blame for the callowness of some of the new; by wont of being quick to scoff at rookie errors but not so quick to take the lad to one side in the first place and pointing out the tricks; forgetting where they came from if you like. Every day is, or should be, a school day in this job.
Sidevalve:
jakethesnake:
cooper1203:
And yet, the same principle applies. If, like me, you were made aware of the TwinSplit’s idiosyncrasies before you started driving one, thus avoiding the rookie error of clanging it into the first gear cos you didn’t depress the clutch that extra inch at standstill and drawing the attention of every old salt in the yard who will wait eagerly for the next mistake, you’ll get on fine with it once you’ve mastered the art.
I often wonder if some of the older generation of drivers are inadvertently partly to blame for the callowness of some of the new; by wont of being quick to scoff at rookie errors but not so quick to take the lad to one side in the first place and pointing out the tricks; forgetting where they came from if you like. Every day is, or should be, a school day in this job.
Gears clashing going into first from neutral isn’t a twin split idiosyncracy it’s a feature of all constant mesh and sliding mesh boxes.
In many cases there was/is no clutch brake you have to wait with the clutch disengaged for a while for the input shaft to stop turning before putting it into gear.
While ironically in many cases the old hands would tell us to downshift it into first on the move on the approach with the instruction always stop in the gear you’ll move away in.
Then wait at stops in gear with the clutch disengaged.Which is bad practice.
My guess is that old rule was based on the even more recalcitrant from neutral at a stop into first sliding mesh.Which ironically was also a design many cars were still using on first gear when trucks had moved on to constant and even synchro mesh.Even the Ford Anglia had sliding mesh ( crash ) on first gear.Again I still usually applied the rule always put it in neutral while waiting at stops. Although like trucks I would sometimes downshift it on the move and wait in gear with the clutch disengaged to save time waiting at give way lines.
It doesn’t take long to wait for the input shaft to stop spinning putting it into gear without a clutch brake it’s not a big deal.
driveress:
until I got into my car to go home and had to reverse for a tractor…except I could not find reverse in my car - I kept shunting forward. In the end the tractor reversed for me. After being in the truck all day I had completely forgotten to push down for reverse in my car 
In a similar vein, I seem to lose all ability to reverse a tractor unit without a trailer, snaking from side to side trying to work out which way I’m going. But, when I get in my car, no problem at all! It’s like my brain clicks into ‘car mode’ but a tractor unit without a trailer is still ‘lorry mode’.
grumpybum:
driveress:
until I got into my car to go home and had to reverse for a tractor…except I could not find reverse in my car - I kept shunting forward. In the end the tractor reversed for me. After being in the truck all day I had completely forgotten to push down for reverse in my car
In a similar vein, I seem to lose all ability to reverse a tractor unit without a trailer, snaking from side to side trying to work out which way I’m going. But, when I get in my car, no problem at all! It’s like my brain clicks into ‘car mode’ but a tractor unit without a trailer is still ‘lorry mode’.
Don’t you uncouple very much?
stu675:
grumpybum:
driveress:
until I got into my car to go home and had to reverse for a tractor…except I could not find reverse in my car - I kept shunting forward. In the end the tractor reversed for me. After being in the truck all day I had completely forgotten to push down for reverse in my car
In a similar vein, I seem to lose all ability to reverse a tractor unit without a trailer, snaking from side to side trying to work out which way I’m going. But, when I get in my car, no problem at all! It’s like my brain clicks into ‘car mode’ but a tractor unit without a trailer is still ‘lorry mode’.
Don’t you uncouple very much?
Yes I do! Several times a day on average. That doesn’t pose a problem. But if I’m leaving a trailer and parking up solo - it will be a wobbly reverse into a space, when it should be an absolute doddle 
Sidevalve:
jakethesnake:
cooper1203:
issue solved i think. It seams it was a case of too quick and poor understanding of how it operates. I was under the imprestion that the range change happened when you depressed the clutch not when you were in nuteral. As soon as i slowed everything down and did one thing at a time i could pin point at what point i heard the clunk. then everything else fell into place. it will just take some getting used to
Glad you are making progress. Like most trying to use a gearbox like that without being shown is not so easy. Like driving and reversing trailers some pick it up quicker than others.
Don’t ever try an eton twin splitter if you think that’s hard.
And yet, the same principle applies. If, like me, you were made aware of the TwinSplit’s idiosyncrasies before you started driving one, thus avoiding the rookie error of clanging it into the first gear cos you didn’t depress the clutch that extra inch at standstill and drawing the attention of every old salt in the yard who will wait eagerly for the next mistake, you’ll get on fine with it once you’ve mastered the art.
I often wonder if some of the older generation of drivers are inadvertently partly to blame for the callowness of some of the new; by wont of being quick to scoff at rookie errors but not so quick to take the lad to one side in the first place and pointing out the tricks; forgetting where they came from if you like. Every day is, or should be, a school day in this job.
We never had any of those stationary gear select crashing problems on the 80’s MAN’s with twin splitter, because the in house workshop were very good at keeping the clutch/gearbox brake adjusted up, but i well recall the racket that resulted from someone rushing the initial gear selection…we won’t mention the tune every single one of us played for a few days or weeks when we first enountered an ETS
Juddian:
Sidevalve:
jakethesnake:
cooper1203:
issue solved i think. It seams it was a case of too quick and poor understanding of how it operates. I was under the imprestion that the range change happened when you depressed the clutch not when you were in nuteral. As soon as i slowed everything down and did one thing at a time i could pin point at what point i heard the clunk. then everything else fell into place. it will just take some getting used to
Glad you are making progress. Like most trying to use a gearbox like that without being shown is not so easy. Like driving and reversing trailers some pick it up quicker than others.
Don’t ever try an eton twin splitter if you think that’s hard.
And yet, the same principle applies. If, like me, you were made aware of the TwinSplit’s idiosyncrasies before you started driving one, thus avoiding the rookie error of clanging it into the first gear cos you didn’t depress the clutch that extra inch at standstill and drawing the attention of every old salt in the yard who will wait eagerly for the next mistake, you’ll get on fine with it once you’ve mastered the art.
I often wonder if some of the older generation of drivers are inadvertently partly to blame for the callowness of some of the new; by wont of being quick to scoff at rookie errors but not so quick to take the lad to one side in the first place and pointing out the tricks; forgetting where they came from if you like. Every day is, or should be, a school day in this job.
We never had any of those stationary gear select crashing problems on the 80’s MAN’s with twin splitter, because the in house workshop were very good at keeping the clutch/gearbox brake adjusted up, but i well recall the racket that resulted from someone rushing the initial gear selection…we won’t mention the tune every single one of us played for a few days or weeks when we first enountered an ETS
Youre a mere youth Juddian! Some 70s trucks also had a clutch brake. Often out of adjustment, but it should have stopped the input shaft, to enable silent and easy gear selection at a standstill, as Sidevalve says.
The clutch would fully disengage at about 90% travel, but the final push would engage the clutch brake. Only to be used when needed, or it`d be useless in no time.
> Sabretooth:
> My old Volvo F12 had a splitter and range change plus overdrive giving a total of 18 gears with the option of 4 reverse !!!
That was a lovely box - one of the best to my mind