AF1:
A wire that isn’t live doesn’t automatically become a suitable earth.
The only criteria it needs is that it has enough free electrons available that the potential difference (voltage) created across the device between the two wires is what the device needs with the amount (current) it requires and with the flow in the direction (polarity) the device requires. As long as it meets those it becomes a suitable earth whether its at 0V, 10V or 10,000V. The alternator charging warning lamp on a car proves the theory.
Its all about the flow of electrons and the resulting electric field that is generated, not whether you call one negative or whether its connected to the negative terminal on the battery. Antennas use this very principle to radiate a signal.
If you’ve got a computer and a multimeter try the following test. With the computer turned on measure the voltage on one of the HDD power connectors. Connect the black probe of your multimeter to the +5V red wire and the red probe of your multimeter to +12V yellow wire on the molex connector. The multimeter will show +7V. That is because there is a potential difference between the two of 7V. You could connect anything that needs 7V to those wires just like that and it would work regardless of the fact that none of them is 0V.
Yes this works a great in the case of an alternator warning lamp as when the alternator isn’t charging it provides an earth to allow the bulb to light. In your scenario when the sidelights are on they’ll be trying to earth by back feeding through the indicator stalk which is not ideal.
Actually having re read it says use the live feed at the flasher bulb, would this not just make the flasher bulb light up when you turn the sidelights on?
Indeed it will, and you sir are a spoil sport, I was planning to let it run for a few pages yet.
Indeed it will, and you sir are a spoil sport, I was planning to let it run for a few pages yet.
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I had a little brain ■■■■ and the circuit I pictured in my head neglected to have a flasher bulb in it lol. He does however make a good argument even if it is incorrect, had me doubting my own thinking with all his patter!
Conor:
With a 2 wire one you could wire the + to the live feed for the side lights as normal but wire the negative to the positive of the indicator bulb. They would then work all the time as normal but when the indicator flashes on the LED lights would turn off.
Sounds to me like some drivers need a dcpc module in electrics. Something can’t be constantly illuminated if it’s flashing.
Same way an LED tail light unit works.The tail light is still on when the brake lights are applied just a set of higher output LEDs are energised.Same as a 5/25 stop tail bulb
The side marker LEDs are rated nominal 5 watt but the flashing LED is rated nominal 25 so its brighter but the marker LEDs stay illuminated.
This isn’t some magical voodoo but something which has been done on vehicles for years. I take it you’ve got an alternator warning light on your car? It works on exactly the same principle.
When Bking’s posting more sense than you it’s time to throw in the towel.
So smart arse how come LEDs are rated at 3 watt and still give out more light than a 25 watt bulb.Perhaps you could explain elecrtron cloud collapse.
This should be good!
This isn’t some magical voodoo but something which has been done on vehicles for years. I take it you’ve got an alternator warning light on your car? It works on exactly the same principle.
When Bking’s posting more sense than you it’s time to throw in the towel.
So smart arse how come LEDs are rated at 3 watt and still give out more light than a 25 watt bulb.Perhaps you could explain elecrtron cloud collapse.
This should be good!
Because their design means they transduce electrical energy to light much more efficiently than an old style filament bulb.
(I was actually saying you weren’t posting ■■■■■■■■, for once, or certainly less ■■■■■■■■ than Conor but you’ve spoilt it now)
Bulbs use 80% of their energy to produce heat(touch a bulb after 10 seconds illumination) and a full spectrum.
Leds produce 80% light (in the visible spectrum)and do not use resistance to heat an element.They produce red,blue,orange pure light.They do not need a “lens” to absorb the violet, green or blue that incandecent bulbs produce.
I may talk ■■■■■■■■ to you and the uneducated or those with a closed mind, to them,its all crap.
Maybe some on here would like to know how things really work and not “hearsay”
Bking:
Simple answer without going into quantum theory.
Bulbs use 80% of their energy to produce heat(touch a bulb after 10 seconds illumination) and a full spectrum.
Leds produce 80% light (in the visible spectrum)and do not use resistance to heat an element.They produce red,blue,orange pure light.They do not need a “lens” to absorb the violet, green or blue that incandecent bulbs produce.
I may talk ■■■■■■■■ to you and the uneducated or those with a closed mind, to them,its all crap.
Maybe some on here would like to know how things really work and not “hearsay”
leo.saphira:
Looked into this the other day. There is a light unit made by rubbolite (what ever their name is) has 3 wires off it. Cost about £20 each.
RUBBOLITE 626 is the model, the truck I often drive at night has these fitted its an 8 wheeler tipper, I think there are 6 down each side, never yet had any faults with any of them apart from the odd broken wire, the truck is an 08 reg with around 700k on the clock and these have been fitted from new
dunner bother poncing around with Conors version of flashing side lights as a modern trucks lighting control module won’t know what the ■■■■ its doing, just buy the right ones in the first place and make a good job fitting them and you wont have any bother!
Bking:
Simple answer without going into quantum theory.
Bulbs use 80% of their energy to produce heat(touch a bulb after 10 seconds illumination) and a full spectrum.
Leds produce 80% light (in the visible spectrum)and do not use resistance to heat an element.They produce red,blue,orange pure light.They do not need a “lens” to absorb the violet, green or blue that incandecent bulbs produce.
I may talk ■■■■■■■■ to you and the uneducated or those with a closed mind, to them,its all crap.
Maybe some on here would like to know how things really work and not “hearsay”
Conor:
With a 2 wire one you could wire the + to the live feed for the side lights as normal but wire the negative to the positive of the indicator bulb. They would then work all the time as normal but when the indicator flashes on the LED lights would turn off.
Quite correct. BUT - it’s an MOT failure if the side light is not ON at the same time as the normal indicators. (In other words, when front is on, side is off, and when front is off, side is on.) I found this out when I presented a truck wired this way for MOT and was given 5 minutes to put the earthing back to normal!
Ive got LED side marker lights obviously run off the side light switch, but ive seen a number of trucks these days with flashing side markers in line with the indicator repeaters… is there any sort of relay you can buy to change them so they flash? Ive seen it on the exact same truck, but it was a daf lf… Im running a daf cf. Cheers
Its called a time delayed circuit the same as what is inside an indicator rely, tick tock tick tock; circuit on for half a second circuit off for a second
Why bother■■?
If you are that bothered there are plenty of schematics availible out there on the internet
infact I have though about building one myself; to power an electronic ignition switch so to light a piece of string attached to a barrel on gun powder to trigger the house of parliment off on guy falks night
Conor:
With a 2 wire one you could wire the + to the live feed for the side lights as normal but wire the negative to the positive of the indicator bulb. They would then work all the time as normal but when the indicator flashes on the LED lights would turn off.
Quite correct. BUT - it’s an MOT failure if the side light is not ON at the same time as the normal indicators. (In other words, when front is on, side is off, and when front is off, side is on.) I found this out when I presented a truck wired this way for MOT and was given 5 minutes to put the earthing back to normal!
It’s neither legal or electrically correct, can’t say I blame you if you haven’t read the thread though.
