malcolmj:
so thats how its done
Yea, right 
malcolmj:
I wish all this info was about when i took my test back in the black and white days althou i did have power steering in the truck i sat my test in
Same here mate 
Nor was there any interweb net, or whatever you call it 
So no chance of a quick look in a forum 
so this is the same as on the news yesterday school children downloading essays ect it was called cheating 
malcolmj:
so this is the same as on the news yesterday school children downloading essays ect it was called cheating
Not quite the same me thinks - all that is here is the information, not the result 
I use similar idea and always give out my own handout to candidates.
Uncouple climb out the cab tell the examiner at this point I am removing my numberplate.
B = Brake (Trailer) Apply the brake
L = Legs Wind down the legs
A = Air Lines Remove airlines and electrical leads
C = Check (Trailer Brake)
K = King Pin
Remove the safety chain and release the 5th wheel coupling.
At this point climb in the cab and pull the vehicle forward under control, separating the tractor from the trailer. Drive forward then reverse the tractor and park by the side of the trailer — climb out of the cab.
Recouple
C = Check (Trailer Brake) Check trailer brake is on and continue around the trailer, checking lights, bodywork, tyres, mudguards and Mot disc.
Climb into cab drive the tractor forwards in front of the trailer and reverse to the trailer stopping just short. Climb out the cab check height of trailer and 5th wheel.
Climb into the cab and reverse under the trailer and listen for 2 clicks. The 5th wheel is engaged. In your lowest gear take 2 big pulls forward to confirm the trailer is hooked. Turn off the engine, climb out the cab.
K = King Pin Replace safety chain
A = Air Lines Replace airlines and electrical leads ( don’t forget to twist the airline collars after connecting ).
L = Legs Wind up legs and stow handle
B = Brake Trailer.Disengage the trailer brake
At this point I am replacing my number plate.
Would you assist me in a light check.
Would you like a rolling brake check.
I used to do the second trailer brake Check when we had the ratchet trailer brake as it would spring loose when the red airline was released - thanking my stars that it has now gone
was just wondering if you could say a bit about the trailer brake. Where is it? how does it work? and also whats alll this i’ve heard about a shunt device? what is it.
Good post otherwise.
ROG:
I used to do the second trailer brake Check when we had the ratchet trailer brake as it would spring loose when the red airline was released - thanking my stars that it has now gone
I didn’t have an acronym but my method as follows eliminated the above problem. I worked in the same way each time, taking the same route from and back to the cab.
Spardo:
ROG:
I used to do the second trailer brake Check when we had the ratchet trailer brake as it would spring loose when the red airline was released - thanking my stars that it has now goneI didn’t have an acronym but my method as follows eliminated the above problem. I worked in the same way each time, taking the same route from and back to the cab.
- Leave cab climb onto chassis
- Release and secure all susies
- Off chassis walk down nearside
- Wind down legs in passing
- Set trailer brake in passing
- Remove number plate in passing
- Release kingpin in passing
- Regain cab.
This may seem a bit longwinded but everything is done in one flowing movement and if I was interrupted by anyone (distracting and therefore dangerous) all I had to do was to carry on with the same route without a big ? over my head while I said to myself ‘now, where was I?’
Never dropped a trailer on its knees except one which was sabotaged (pin pulled) while parked overnight when I was in digs. Which tells you how many years ago that was, since when I have always made sure to check before a new shift.
I think the SAFETY way of thinking is to apply the trailer brake first before doing anything else - it might be argued that it technically does not matter but, for safety, what if the unit handbrake was forgotten 
tramp:
was just wondering if you could say a bit about the trailer brake. Where is it? how does it work? and also whats alll this i’ve heard about a shunt device? what is it.
Good post otherwise.
Hi tramp Thanks for the comment.
I designed the post to be an introduction to the coupling exercise, and confined myself to busting the terminology.
I deliberately left out the hanbrake / shunt valve so as to not overcomplicate it.
The main reason for that was that different trailers have different set-ups when it comes to handbrakes. 
ROG:
Spardo:
ROG:
I used to do the second trailer brake Check when we had the ratchet trailer brake as it would spring loose when the red airline was released - thanking my stars that it has now goneI didn’t have an acronym but my method as follows eliminated the above problem. I worked in the same way each time, taking the same route from and back to the cab.
- Leave cab climb onto chassis
- Release and secure all susies
- Off chassis walk down nearside
- Wind down legs in passing
- Set trailer brake in passing
- Remove number plate in passing
- Release kingpin in passing
- Regain cab.
This may seem a bit longwinded but everything is done in one flowing movement and if I was interrupted by anyone (distracting and therefore dangerous) all I had to do was to carry on with the same route without a big ? over my head while I said to myself ‘now, where was I?’
Never dropped a trailer on its knees except one which was sabotaged (pin pulled) while parked overnight when I was in digs. Which tells you how many years ago that was, since when I have always made sure to check before a new shift.I think the SAFETY way of thinking is to apply the trailer brake first before doing anything else - it might be argued that it technically does not matter but, for safety, what if the unit handbrake was forgotten
If the unit handbrake was forgotten you would more than likely realise that well before you got as far as the trailer brake and in any case as my first act after leaving the cab is to disconnect the red airline that answers your objection.
I have always felt that one flowing movement doing all the jobs as you pass them is a lot safer than zig-zagging backwards and forward with a checklist in your head - acronym or not.
Re-coupling you could possibly have a point as connecting the red line with the trailer brake not set could be disastrous if the vehicle handbrake is not set, but I don’t think so. In any case, after one such incident I made it a personal mantra to take a second look at the handbrake from outside the cab before shutting the door just to make sure. Perhaps I should have made that number 1 above and shunted everything else down one.
Spardo:
my first act after leaving the cab is to disconnect the red airline that answers your objection.
Not an ‘objection’, which is why I wrote…
it might be argued that it technically does not matter
Actually going back to the real world, a few of the posts (except Big D’s) has the number plate half way down the procedure.
Perfect for the test - useless for dropping a trailer on a bay.
Unless you’ve got a roller shutter door, then it’s:
)and then carry on as usual from the trailer brake bit…
Fantastic thread, wish I’d found it last month.
Thanks to everybody that contributed.
Fail the test if you do not apply the trailer brake first.
Ok, shunt valves.
These are usually a different shape and/or colour to the brake valve. They are used to move the trailer without air-lines connected (there must be air in the trailer tanks though). Warning, if you use the shunt valve, ALL BRAKES ON THE TRAILER ARE OFF! These are mainly used by shunters, and are not normally used by on the road drivers. Your only duty when coupling is to ensure the valve is off (usually pulled out). On the Schmitz trailers I usually haul, they shunt valve will pop out automagically when the red line is connected.
The only time an on the road driver will use a shunt valve is in a really really tight spot. If you have to really jack the unit around to get into or out of a tight place, you can then remove all the suzies, and push the shunt valve, but you MUST remember to replace them before going on the road.
Nice one.
I take it that means that LGV tests (from 2010) will need to have ballast in the cargo area to make the test more realistic?
Postponed till 2013. But don’t get too excited - an artic or drawbar will only have to weigh 15 tonnes when presented for test so it’s a really half hearted effort. I believe the outfit should weigh around 80% of it’s MAM as a minimum. (Cat C will have to be a mighty 10 tonnes!)
BTW, no requirement for ABS on a trailer used for test - but the towing vehicle must be fitted with it. Clearly, if the trailer is fitted with ABS it’s essential that it’s connected.
