Exhaust Brakes - How do they work?

Wheel Nut:

Old John:

Wheel Nut:
Its a simple butterfly valve like a carburettor choke that slows the air getting past, its just back pressure that slows the vehicle or in the case of a DAF stops the engine.

It is not linked to the gearbox, axle cooling system or anything else, it sits in the exhaust manifold, the higher the engine revs the more efficient it is.

I beg to differ regarding the exhaust brake not being connected to anything else.
Of course it is. It’s "connected"to everything, or it would have no effect at all on the progress of the vehicle. The Instant that you lift your foot off the accelerator, instead of the engine working to turn the wheels, the inertia of the vehicle is working to turn the engine, (provided that the vehicle is in gear and the clutch is engaged) , the effect of any system apart from the wheel brakes depends entirely on that connection. So, from the friction of the tyres with the road, all the way to friction between the clutch components, everything requires to be connected for any of these systems to have any effect on the progress of the whole vehicle.

The OP asked about an Exhaust Brake, not an Engine Brake - VEB or Gearbox Retarder. You also had the option of the Telma type on coaches which were a magnetic force on the prop shaft.

Remember the Spanish trailers and
rigids with the glowing disc brake on the rear axle. It was a similar set up as a Vanwall race car. A disc brake on the tail shaft of the gearbox which slowed the engine and wheels together.

Comparing a gearbox retarder, Jacobs, VEB, or TELMA to an exhaust brake is akin to comparing a ratchet handbrake on a PSK to a wax thermostat.

A middle aged driver may remember the exhaust brake on a Volvo F7 - F10. A button on the floor and a switch on the dash. It was orange and had a safety catch on it.

Can you explain what it was for?

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Fair point, but I think both Dan and I explained the workings of an Exhaust brake quite clearly.

I have seen Spanish trailers up this way, the ones that carry live shellfish particularly, usually from around the Asturias region. Seems to be less common now, but some of them had retarders on one axle of the trailer. It was a great idea, and I think that they were usually electromagnetic (Telma) types. Some of the tractor units had them fitted also. They worked on the same principle as an electric motor, but in reverse, and it may have been the rotor of the retarder(the part attached to the prop shaft) which you saw glowing. I’m not sure.
Perhaps it is less common now as engine brake and other retarder systems have got so good.

Re. Volvo exhaust brake controls. I don’t know. I had an F86, then had lots of UK produced trucks until I went back to Volvo with FL10/FM12/ FM13, so I know little or nothing about the F range trucks.

I have an oldish R type Scania now which has a hydraulic retarder on the gearbox. It’s very good, but no better than the Volvo engine brake.
I feel that these systems should be standard fitting on all heavy trucks, as, used properly, they really are a great asset to safety. As an example, I run heavy most of the time on very hard roads. The truck has done around 70 thousand K since I had new discs and pads fitted to th drive axle, and the pads still have 80% material remaining.

Roymondo:

Franglais:

Roymondo:
Most of us use the exhaust brake - but can anyone explain the physics and the mechanism involved?

Regular brakes are easy enough - moving disc/drum brought into contact with brake pads/linings, resulting in friction which directly converts the rotational energy into heat, which is in turn dissipated to the air. But what are the Physics and mechanics of an exhaust brake?

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Disambiguation needed.
Do you really mean an exhaust brake? A simple block on the exhaust pipe to increase back pressure a little and give slightly more engine braking.
Or a form of engine braking? Valves are used to turn the engine into an air compressor.
Or a retarder? A fluid brake on the rear of the gearbox, that turns rotational energy into heat.
Or even (unlikely today on trucks) an electrical retarder?

Dunno really - our fleet consists almost entirely of 65 plate bog standard fleet-spec MAN units and rigids. Almost certainly one of the first two options. I note that on some of the units (and one or two of the rigids) pressing the button on the stalk achieves little more than a down-change and a different noise from the engine/exhaust while in others these effects are accompanied by a noticeable deceleration. I was really just wanting to understand the mechanical goings-on.

.
From 2011 here are MAN videos.
youtube.com/watch?v=Jk9w4RSEFQ0
youtube.com/watch?v=JCTB9Z0cFsI
.
There is some electronic management going on, involving application of service brakes and gear changing, but the mechanical principles are fairly easy to understand.
In an exhaust brake a flap blocks the exhaust, the engine ■■■■■ in and compresses air, but can`t exhaust it. The air trapped in the cylinder slows the engine.
The MAN engine brake system, opens the exhaust valve slightly so the engine is pushing air out through a small hole, or sucking it in again, so producing braking on both up and down strokes. More
.
And here is a Jake Brake.
The engine is being used to compress air, then the compressed air, (and the energy used to compress it) is exhausted to the atmosphere.
.
Without exhaust brakes, the engine still compresses air, but with the valves closed the “power stroke”, (even if no fuel is burnt) returns the energy (mostly) used to compress the air, to the system.
.
EDIT here is the Jake link
youtube.com/watch?v=HkfjCJClWVA

Going back 30 yrs i had a Greaves Scottish 1958 trials bike with a 197 villiers going down very steep banks in the quarry if you didn’t use the decompressor the back wheel would lock up .

In later yrs I drilled the head and fitted one to a TY175

Carryfast:

Juddian:
Always use the auxilliary brake whatever its design, regard that as the primary brake for slowing the vehicle and the service brakes for bringing the vehicle to a final halt or emergencies.

Most modern vehicles the green band on the rev counter changes when exhauster is operating, from a green band of say 1000 to 1500 rpm it changes to 2000 to 2200 rpm (taking MAN’s as an example) for best/preferred engine braking performance, it sounds cruel utilising such high revs but that’s what the maker intended.

I too know drivers who switch auto retarding off and use brakes only (don’t be silly no downchanges, BTSGTG all on the brakes it’s the modern way y’know :unamused: ), wonder how they’d have got on back in the days of drums all round and manual adjusters :open_mouth:

Exhaust brakes need a low gear and as close to the red line as possible to be effective.They usually work ok when used properly.Anything below the red is the engine’s usable rev range the green is all about the best fuel efficiency.

Which is what i said, but you haven’t noted that variable rev counter banding features these days.
On most modern vehicles the green band on the rev counter shifts upwards when retarding, in some almost doubling the revs required for efficiency.

The green band in normal driving is as i stated 1000/1500 rpm, once retarding is triggered that green band shifts immediately to 2000/2200 rpm, red band starts at 2400 rpm, obviously these are high revs compared to some other engines but MAN’s i’ve driven over the years have always been capable of high revs even if the desired band for efficient driving is pretty standard in the 1000/1500 range.

If you make much use of the rev band between 1500 and 2400 for normal driving (discounting retarding) the fuel figures will drop off the cliff, and whatever spyware system is used will have a blue fit, in the real world there’s very little point in going over the green band normal driving, you get no more torque all you do is make a lot of noise and use more fuel…oh and look like a rank amateur :laughing:

There is an American guy on U tube, who goes by the name of Adept Ape.

I found a video of his this morning which describes very well the difference between an exhaust brake and an engine brake, and shows clearly how the two systems work.

I don’t know how to post links, but it should come up if you Google it.

youtube.com/watch?v=jaqX2mx1yhQ

Plus here is a ZF clip for their “Intarder”.

youtube.com/watch?v=EKa97RYxE_Q

As an aside the best braked vehicle I had was a 2006 DAF, manual box, decent service brakes, exhaust brake and retarder.
At high road speed the intarder could drag 40ton back on a proper hill, as road speed dropped, dropping gears and using the exhauster became more effective. Service brakes stayed cool and in reserve.
A joy to drive on mountain roads and made brilliant time on the A75 over Millau.

Franglais:
Plus here is a ZF clip for their “Intarder”.

youtube.com/watch?v=EKa97RYxE_Q

As an aside the best braked vehicle I had was a 2006 DAF, manual box, decent service brakes, exhaust brake and retarder.
At high road speed the intarder could drag 40ton back on a proper hill, as road speed dropped, dropping gears and using the exhauster became more effective. Service brakes stayed cool and in reserve.
A joy to drive on mountain roads and made brilliant time on the A75 over Millau.

Again, that shows clearly how a hydraulic retarder works. Interesting.
One advantage of that system is that the retarder continues to provide effort even when you press the clutch to change gear, which is handy with a manual box with which you can’t achieve the change speed which a modern AMT system can.

Just for Interest, has anyone had a go on a twin clutch Volvo? I reckon it has to be the ultimate tool on tough routes. I’d love to try one.

Thanks for the replies - especially those videos. And apologies for my sloppy use of the term “exhaust brake”. I had no idea there were different sytems operating in different ways.

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Juddian:
The green band in normal driving is as i stated 1000/1500 rpm, once retarding is triggered that green band shifts immediately to 2000/2200 rpm, red band starts at 2400 rpm, obviously these are high revs compared to some other engines but MAN’s i’ve driven over the years have always been capable of high revs even if the desired band for efficient driving is pretty standard in the 1000/1500 range.

If you make much use of the rev band between 1500 and 2400 for normal driving (discounting retarding) the fuel figures will drop off the cliff, and whatever spyware system is used will have a blue fit, in the real world there’s very little point in going over the green band normal driving, you get no more torque all you do is make a lot of noise and use more fuel…oh and look like a rank amateur [emoji38]

I notice on ours that the green band on the tacho changes to a slightly rev range in the top two gears. Any idea what that’s about?

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Roymondo:

Juddian:
The green band in normal driving is as i stated 1000/1500 rpm, once retarding is triggered that green band shifts immediately to 2000/2200 rpm, red band starts at 2400 rpm, obviously these are high revs compared to some other engines but MAN’s i’ve driven over the years have always been capable of high revs even if the desired band for efficient driving is pretty standard in the 1000/1500 range.

If you make much use of the rev band between 1500 and 2400 for normal driving (discounting retarding) the fuel figures will drop off the cliff, and whatever spyware system is used will have a blue fit, in the real world there’s very little point in going over the green band normal driving, you get no more torque all you do is make a lot of noise and use more fuel…oh and look like a rank amateur [emoji38]

I notice on ours that the green band on the tacho changes to a slightly rev range in the top two gears. Any idea what that’s about?

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No, can’t say as i’ve ever noticed that but has piqued interest, will keep me eye open next time in one.
This normal driving green band or retarding green band?

Old John:
Just for Interest, has anyone had a go on a twin clutch Volvo? I reckon it has to be the ultimate tool on tough routes. I’d love to try one.

We have one .I confess I haven’t driven it .
The theory is good but ours and many others have given problems . The trucks have been back to Volvo a few times , gearbox has been out stripped , rebuilt and still not working properly.
Ours will always select first when moving off even with no trailer , then it selects 5th or 7th realises it has gone to far and drops to third and so on makes roundabouts and road ends an interesting experience. Obviously it has problems that need to be sorted out . Its a great idea but it still needs a little work on it .

beefy4605:

Old John:
Just for Interest, has anyone had a go on a twin clutch Volvo? I reckon it has to be the ultimate tool on tough routes. I’d love to try one.

‘’'We have one .I confess I haven’t driven it .
The theory is good but ours and many others have given problems . The trucks have been back to Volvo a few times , gearbox has been out stripped , rebuilt and still not working properly.
Ours will always select first when moving off even with no trailer , then it selects 5th or 7th realises it has gone to far and drops to third and so on makes roundabouts and road ends an interesting experience. Obviously it has problems that need to be sorted out . Its a great idea but it still needs a little work on it .

‘’’

Sorry the quoting method went to pieces there ^^^ :unamused: :blush:

Thats a pity, in theory with lightning fast changes you have amost direct drive with little or no loss of turbo pressure during the interminable wait for typical autoboxes to do their thing, so even starting n 1st it should provide constant acceleration like a torque converter auto but without the drive train power loss.

I haven’t had a go in one either but was hoping that at last there might have an auto box that could rival an Eaton Twin Split for making progress, ah well.

Dave the mod sorted it, thanks for making that readable again Dave, dunno wot i dun wrong there :blush:

Juddian:

Roymondo:

Juddian:
The green band in normal driving is as i stated 1000/1500 rpm, once retarding is triggered that green band shifts immediately to 2000/2200 rpm, red band starts at 2400 rpm, obviously these are high revs compared to some other engines but MAN’s i’ve driven over the years have always been capable of high revs even if the desired band for efficient driving is pretty standard in the 1000/1500 range.

If you make much use of the rev band between 1500 and 2400 for normal driving (discounting retarding) the fuel figures will drop off the cliff, and whatever spyware system is used will have a blue fit, in the real world there’s very little point in going over the green band normal driving, you get no more torque all you do is make a lot of noise and use more fuel…oh and look like a rank amateur [emoji38]

I notice on ours that the green band on the tacho changes to a slightly rev range in the top two gears. Any idea what that’s about?

Sent from my VOG-L09 using Tapatalk

No, can’t say as i’ve ever noticed that but has piqued interest, will keep me eye open next time in one.
This normal driving green band or retarding green band?

Normal driving - when the box shifts into eleventh gear the bright green “sweet spot” moves down by 100 rpm or so and the engine note also changes subtly. When it changes back down to 10 (or lower) the green band reverts to its former position. If I could be bothered to RTFM it probably explains it there.

^^^ Well if it does that on ours Roymondo i’ve never noticed it, will check that out with interest next time i’m in one.

Carryfast:
Exhaust brakes need a low gear and as close to the red line as possible to be effective.They usually work ok when used properly.Anything below the red is the engine’s usable rev range the green is all about the best fuel efficiency.

Wait for it… :grimacing:

I agree with every word that Carryfast has written in this quote^^^ :open_mouth:

dieseldave:

Carryfast:
Exhaust brakes need a low gear and as close to the red line as possible to be effective.They usually work ok when used properly.Anything below the red is the engine’s usable rev range the green is all about the best fuel efficiency.

Wait for it… :grimacing:

I agree with every word that Carryfast has written in this quote^^^ :open_mouth:

A stopped clock…

Probably about 1959

WARNING

No children or Snowflakes were abused during the making of this video.

dieseldave:

Carryfast:
Exhaust brakes need a low gear and as close to the red line as possible to be effective.They usually work ok when used properly.Anything below the red is the engine’s usable rev range the green is all about the best fuel efficiency.

Wait for it… :grimacing:

I agree with every word that Carryfast has written in this quote^^^ :open_mouth:

Pains me to admit it, but your man is pretty well spot on here. Same applies to engine (compression) brakes.
Rather less important on vehicles with hydraulic or electric retarding systems.

The Volvo Jake or VEB