tad:
Spotted this incident yesterday Fri 18 March. The driver is on the phone and the hoodie was I think a witness.
couldn’t of happened to a nicer company feel sorry for the driver he was possibly badgered and harrassed every five minutes i have had many a run in with them working there and on agency to the point if they ring more than twice the phone goes on silent
and several times they have tryed chasing people to get on the road
i refuse to be rushed and always duck under to have a shufty
Exactly my thoughts too. I’ve done 2 days and 1 night for the company. The night was ok if I’m honest, but the days, jesus christ you’d have to be a ■■■■■■■ moron to work for them ■■■■■.
leo.saphira:
I do wonder though how its done on the W+D as I never been trained on coupling on them? is it a bar that clamps down or something?
Anyhow… I am with Lucy on the torch front.
When going under, before locking in - raise unit to full height and slowly ram it in nicely, 2 tugs, dog clip in and quick flash of the torch to make sure the arm is fully across the pin and trailer is sitting nicely on the plate.
W&D are totally different, like a farm tractor, pin and eye, most are automatic, most have a sprung clip for safety.
Line it all up with the pin raised. Black button on left is security clip, the lever raises the pin. Occasionally pin will will not drop fully, with prime mover handbrake on, couple red line and the air pressure going into the air bags or the trailer brakes releasing will normally sort that out.
On both kinds of coupling, no need to ram anything slowly or otherwise.
Check height, raise unit until plate just meets fifth wheel and reverse under slowly, you will here the jaws close with a confident click. The same with a DB pin, it will drop with a satisfying clunk.
No need to go under the trailer at 20mph or raise the front tractor wheels off the ground on a tug test.
My tried and tested method, which I have used for years without incident or failure, is to approach the trailer, lower the air suspension on unit, back under and once the plate is completely under the trailer raise the air, which keeps the grease of the lip. When I see the trailer start to lift I reverse slowly, less than walking pace, until the jaws grab the pin, the actual coupling makes no more noise than a car door closing. Then do a tug test, for some reason I always do it twice, followed by the dog-clip, if there is one, and duck under to look up the jaws and check the bar. Then just the lines, legs, number plate and so on.
i cant understand why drivers try to enialate the pin making a massive crashing noise, no need for it. my method is similar to coffeeholics. Lower the air on the unit fully, back under, raise it up slightly so the trl lifts and takes the weight of the legs, back on the pin, 2 tugs, dog clip, also i give the handle a good wack with the palm of my hand aswell.
The only time i really ■■■■ myself is coming round the M25 anti clockwise where you pass over the M4, they have really ■■■■■■ the allignment of the bridge to the road, always think the pin is going to jump out when you go over that bump.
Coffeeholic:
My tried and tested method, which I have used for years without incident or failure, is to approach the trailer, lower the air suspension on unit, back under and once the plate is completely under the trailer raise the air, which keeps the grease of the lip. When I see the trailer start to lift I reverse slowly, less than walking pace, until the jaws grab the pin, the actual coupling makes no more noise than a car door closing. Then do a tug test, for some reason I always do it twice, followed by the dog-clip, if there is one, and duck under to look up the jaws and check the bar. Then just the lines, legs, number plate and so on.
Coffeeholic:
My tried and tested method, which I have used for years without incident or failure, is to approach the trailer, lower the air suspension on unit, back under and once the plate is completely under the trailer raise the air, which keeps the grease of the lip. When I see the trailer start to lift I reverse slowly, less than walking pace, until the jaws grab the pin, the actual coupling makes no more noise than a car door closing. Then do a tug test, for some reason I always do it twice, followed by the dog-clip, if there is one, and duck under to look up the jaws and check the bar. Then just the lines, legs, number plate and so on.
Seems like a fool proof way to me
well it’s worked for this fool for many years so I guess you are right.
Another benefit about doing it that way I forgot to mention is because it doesn’t make a lot of noise you can actually hear if it has coupled properly. On a number of occasions I’ve thought to myself, “That didn’t sound right,” and on getting out and checking I found the arm hadn’t gone all the way in and the bar therefore wasn’t fully locked across. You aint gonna hear it with the ‘ram it home as hard and noisily as possible’ method
Coffeeholic:
My tried and tested method, which I have used for years without incident or failure, is to approach the trailer, lower the air suspension on unit, back under and once the plate is completely under the trailer raise the air, which keeps the grease of the lip. When I see the trailer start to lift I reverse slowly, less than walking pace, until the jaws grab the pin, the actual coupling makes no more noise than a car door closing. Then do a tug test, for some reason I always do it twice, followed by the dog-clip, if there is one, and duck under to look up the jaws and check the bar. Then just the lines, legs, number plate and so on.
Coffeeholic:
Another benefit about doing it that way I forgot to mention is because it doesn’t make a lot of noise you can actually hear if it has coupled properly. On a number of occasions I’ve thought to myself, “That didn’t sound right,” and on getting out and checking I found the arm hadn’t gone all the way in and the bar therefore wasn’t fully locked across. You aint gonna hear it with the ‘ram it home as hard and noisily as possible’ method
I have always given only one tug, and then put the dog clip in…and dont forget the clip wont go in if the jaws aint shut !!
Second issue with nobby dressingtable…they should be under the same rules as us…it is against the law, and you will be prosecuted for not having a dog clip…or connecting one…so i fully blame the drivers for taking the trucks out in the first place…as they say " its your licence "
As for knob head in the photo…its his fault…no doubt…no questions…but a first class picture…
truckyboy:
I have always given only one tug, and then put the dog clip in…and dont forget the clip wont go in if the jaws aint shut !!
Second issue with nobby dressingtable…they should be under the same rules as us…it is against the law, and you will be prosecuted for not having a dog clip…or connecting one…so i fully blame the drivers for taking the trucks out in the first place…as they say " its your licence "
As for knob head in the photo…its his fault…no doubt…no questions…but a first class picture…
Not so Bob, there are many different design of Fifth Wheel couplings and you in your many years would have come across these, as for drivers refusing to drive something that is totally legal, it is the quickest way out of a job I would think.
Some may even remember the original Fifth Wheels fitted on very early Volvo’s, they didn’t have safety clips, but they had two handles, one to release the jaws and one to open them. The only disadvantage to this was the control arms were on the nearside. Wrong for the UK.
Take note on picture 1 & 3 and you get a clearer picture of the replaceable wearing rings
The next time anyone gets pulled by the Laird Angus. Have a look at his Scania and tell me what type of fifth wheel is fitted, has it got a clip or a lever?
