switchlogic:
Time to find a new job. Sound like a right bunch of [zb]. Or buy some jump leads. You’ll always find someone to give you a jump.
Make sure you’ve got all your lights and heater and electrical gadgets on when you jump it because it can sometimes blow them.
Never have, and I’ve jump started lorries more times than I can shake a stick at and never had a problem yet. Lots of scare stories around with regards jump starts to justify not allowing them but it’s generally not a problem. Obviously occasionally a problem may arise but not nearly as much a people make out.
cieranc:
Been on the spanners since 1996 and never known an ECU being spiked through jump-starting.
I work on the service van, contracting to everyone, AA Truck, Fleet Support, RAC Comical, Delta FMG, all the commercial clubs.
Jump starts CAN cause a spike. I test drove a Daf years ago and agreed to buy it. When I picked it up
it wouldn’t start so the fitter used the jump leads on it. Everything on the dash blew!! It cost the dealer
a new dash as well as two new batteries. The bill was about £1700 (mid 90s) and of course he asked
me to contribute to the cost!!! Of course I politely told him to walk away in jerky movements
That was the start of a not very happy relationship with Daf dealers and there product.
regards kevmac47. Ps the fitter got a right bollocking for NOT turning on all the lights,
wipers heaters,etc.
I too have jump-started trucks many times and have never had a problem either with the flatted truck or the donor truck. I’m not a fitter but I can’t understand the advice to have lights, heater on etc, on either truck, because one precaution I always take is to ensure that the lights and ignition are turned off on both vehicles before connecting the jump leads.
Harry Monk:
I too have jump-started trucks many times and have never had a problem either with the flatted truck or the donor truck. I’m not a fitter but I can’t understand the advice to have lights, heater on etc, on either truck, because one precaution I always take is to ensure that the lights and ignition are turned off on both vehicles before connecting the jump leads.
Harry, the problem occurs when you disconnect the jump leads after the vehicle has started.
That is when the spike happens. Ps it never happened when we were young’uns as at that
time all the batteries did was start the motor
ukjon1:
My company have threatened to charge drivers for the batteries running flat. The have also threatened to discipline those found with tvs dvds and laptops in their trucks, is this allowed. I rely on my tv whilst away all week. I also have a problem with my batteries, they will drop as low as 21.6 volts some nights, it will start only just but i have reported it and our fitters say they are fine. The water level is just above the plates inside but around 4 inches from the top of the battery, i do understand that they need space to expand whilst hot. Any advice on these matters would be appreciated. thanks
I can’t see where you’re going to go next with this. If they tell you they don’t want that gear in the cab then i would guess they’re pretty much in their rights to say so. The problem over water leveles in the battery is their problem not yours, even if you find out one way or another if the batteries are good (or not), they’ve still told you its a disclipinary for tv,dvd and laptops etc? And also if they’re that petty and single minded over the truck starting then i’d forget trying to jump start it, first time something goes bang, you’ll be blamed for it!!
cieranc:
Any half decent fitter can test the batteries.
Get the batteries drop tested, takes a few minutes and will show a weak cell (electrolyte bubbling under load).
Then, fit a DC amp clamp to the main battery lead when you start her up, should be able to see the amps the batteries are absorbing. Low amps = battery in not good health.
Or as above, just keep the engine running if they’re going to be pricks.
yer a load tester should tell you if they are holding charge or not
So somebody tell me, how does a spike occur? Like Harry when I jump start a truck absolutely everything is switched off. I don’t get this ‘spike’ thing.
switchlogic:
So somebody tell me, how does a spike occur? Like Harry when I jump start a truck absolutely everything is switched off. I don’t get this ‘spike’ thing.
I do switch everything off the same as yourself as i’m frightened something being on may invite a ‘spike’ or sudden surge of current and blow a fuse. My understanding is that damage from a ‘spike’ (or sudden surge of current) is only likley to occure when the connection is open (as in switched on) . I’m generally loathe to take advice from any fitters either, as most of them , even though they only work on one make of vehicle seem in reality to know SFA about it other than what the computer says. They’re taught that way.
I phoned in germany the bADAC to jumstart my Lorry.
He used 12 Volt from Van and 12 Volt from the Battery wgich run the Flashing Lights on the Roadworks cones.
Shall be OK to put 4 such Batteries in a Pack to have 24 volt,just enough to give your Battery the additional 2 Volt,you are too low
The spike occurs when you connect the jumpleads.
The batteries on your unit are flat, so the amps are low.
You connect leads from another unit, at that point theres a massive surge of both volts and amps flowing into your unit, as your batteries try to absorb as much of the power as they can.
The spike can travel down the live feed to the ECU, although there is a capacitor/voltage stabiliser which can prevent spikes, this is only designed to cope with your unit’s system, not the extra load of another unit, and sometimes they can be overcome/blown, leaving the current to cook the ECU.
The theory is, by switching on all your lights and blowers, this absorbs the sudden flow in power (bulbs might glow brighter for a second), preventing the spike.
Once your unit’s started, it’s alternator will be running flat out to charge your batteries.
