After a bit of advice/info here please 
What is the differance between traction work and “general” haulage apart from the fact that you are using someone elses trailor??
Got a “work trial” next week [subject to references] for a company on traction work out of Purfleet, Felixstowe and Immingham. Is there anything I need to know, ie particular to traction work, to do the job and prove that they should take me on permanent??
As far as I know it involves picking up trailor, delivering load to customer, reload said trailor and take it back to the docks. Is it really that simple?? 
or am I missing something.
Oh, tautliner and steel (strapping 
) work, not boxes 
Done some box work, not for me on a perm’ basis
So, is there anything particular about the work, please, don’t want to look a fool 
do want to give a good impression 
check the load is secure
check it hasnt been pilfered from
check the handbrake is on or at least there is air in the trailer
check the wheel nuts
check for immigrants
check the tyres
check the sheet for cuts
check the TIR cord even if its sealed
get a re-check report to prove the condition if in doubt
in other words, CHECK CHECK AND CHECK AGAIN
K
Traction work is what you as an owner driver or a small haulier do for a freight company or larger haulage company. i.e. You provide the tractor to move their trailers.
General haulage is one of the types of work you might be contracted to do. General haulage means just what it says on the tin. i.e. The goods moved are general. Anything & everything from tins of Beans to large machines.
In this case it sounds like you are going to be employed by a traction providing haulier, as a driver on traction work, doing general haulage, on port work.
Traction work is alright if you can stick with a good trailer, otherwise you can be hooking up to any rubbish, for which you and your operators license are responsible.
Highly unlikely given the nature of traction work. On port work, expect upto 6 trailers a day on your back if on locals.
Don’t forget some palm couplings. A real bummer when you back under trailer and can’t move it!
Les zizis des routiers sont sympas
i would agree with knowall.
check roadworthyness of the trailers cos whoever dropped them off on the other side of the channel or north sea wouldnt have change bulbs or cracked lenses for your benifit. also check straps cos maybe the other driver loading the trailer had used his own straps and took them off at the port.
L’escargot:
Don’t forget some palm couplings. A real bummer when you back under trailer and can’t move it!
what are “palm couplings”?
Airline couplings used on the continent and in the states instead of the snap connectors seen in the UK.
http://www.tube-gear.com/pages/pdf/Fittings_2.8_Palm%20Couplings.pdf
Giblsa:
L’escargot:
Don’t forget some palm couplings. A real bummer when you back under trailer and can’t move it!
what are “palm couplings”?
euro trailers have diferent fittings for your airlines palm couplings fit onto these with conventional fittings on t,other end so you use uk airline as usual
and do,nt forget your bulbs and lenses
Good idea to have a light board too.
If your working out of the docks your more than likely going to be pulling unaccompanied trailers coming over from Holland. Tilts/tautliners mostly. Few if any will have any lenses or light bulbs. Most will be in poor condition, maintained rarely and in all probability will have had their brakes wound off. You will need a comprehensive tool kit including a lump hammer, a bucket full of fuses, a small marlin spike, several boxes of assorted light bulbs, lenses, a box of matches and a set of palm couplings. The malling spike is for undoing the dolly’s those Dutch ■■■■■ do, they just leave knots and if you can’t get them undone you will end up using your own ropes. The matches are for jamming in light bulbs in old worn out light fittings, break one in half, hold it to one side inside the fitting then push the bulb in after it. After getting all the lights working, including rewiring any broken wires you will need to get underneath and rewind the brakes back on. If you can get inside the trailer check the load is secure, dry and in good condition. Check the tyres for tread and pressure, that’s what the lump hammer is for, there are no bonuses for blowouts. Check the trailer for leaks/holes, including the roof. If you use any of your own straps/ropes/chains make sure you take them off before you hand the trailer back to the port, otherwise you won’t see them again, ask your boss about this. If you park up at night with the trailer still on, take your light lenses off and bulbs out or don’t be suprised if they’ve walked during the night. Expect to get messed about by all and sundry. Expect to work your nuts off.
Ask your boss about what signature he wants you to give when signing for trailers. Such as, are you signing for the load in good condition or a sealed trailer in good condition. If the trailer/load is not in good condition make sure it’s mentioned on the notes before you move one inch.
berewic:
If your working out of the docks your more than likely going to be pulling unaccompanied trailers coming over from Holland. Tilts/tautliners mostly. Few if any will have any lenses or light bulbs. Most will be in poor condition, maintained rarely and in all probability will have had their brakes wound off. You will need a comprehensive tool kit including a lump hammer, a bucket full of fuses, a small marlin spike, several boxes of assorted light bulbs, lenses, a box of matches and a set of palm couplings. The malling spike is for undoing the dolly’s those Dutch [zb] do, they just leave knots and if you can’t get them undone you will end up using your own ropes. The matches are for jamming in light bulbs in old worn out light fittings, break one in half, hold it to one side inside the fitting then push the bulb in after it. After getting all the lights working, including rewiring any broken wires you will need to get underneath and rewind the brakes back on. If you can get inside the trailer check the load is secure, dry and in good condition. Check the tyres for tread and pressure, that’s what the lump hammer is for, there are no bonuses for blowouts. Check the trailer for leaks/holes, including the roof. If you use any of your own straps/ropes/chains make sure you take them off before you hand the trailer back to the port, otherwise you won’t see them again, ask your boss about this. If you park up at night with the trailer still on, take your light lenses off and bulbs out or don’t be suprised if they’ve walked during the night. Expect to get messed about by all and sundry. Expect to work your nuts off.
Ask your boss about what signature he wants you to give when signing for trailers. Such as, are you signing for the load in good condition or a sealed trailer in good condition. If the trailer/load is not in good condition make sure it’s mentioned on the notes before you move one inch.
From what you said berewic, it sounds like a minefield 
Not only that but in order to get the job done, he will need to show a rest period for 99% of the time he’s not driving. He’ll be working 13’s and 15’s all week.
berewic:
Not only that but in order to get the job done, he will need to show a rest period for 99% of the time he’s not driving. He’ll be working 13’s and 15’s all week.
it sounds like this man speaks from experiance.
I did it for a month or so working out of Cobelfret Purfleet. Not the easiest job i’ve had. Also, take a handle with you too for winding the legs as not all trailers have them.
I did it for 12 months working for Cliff Leader, pulling Lemans trailers, a 9/16 socket was a must and i could have opened up a shop with all the bulbs and lenses i had to carry, thats why a light board is a good back up, plus a spare number plate because your bound to for get one day, as i did and got pulled trying to overtake a butcher on his bike, struggeling past with this old Atki with a pander car up my behind, luckily the butcher was fully freighted or i may not have made it, anyway i got pulled, " no number plate driver", “no, sorry it’s here”, then he asked if my log book was up to date, yes i lied, lets have a look then, oppps!!! 30 quid fine.
dieseldog6:
I did it for 12 months working for Cliff Leader, pulling Lemans trailers, a 9/16 socket was a must and i could have opened up a shop with all the bulbs and lenses i had to carry, thats why a light board is a good back up, plus a spare number plate because your bound to for get one day, as i did and got pulled trying to overtake a butcher on his bike, struggeling past with this old Atki with a pander car up my behind, luckily the butcher was fully freighted or i may not have made it, anyway i got pulled, " no number plate driver", “no, sorry it’s here”, then he asked if my log book was up to date, yes i lied, lets have a look then, oppps!!! 30 quid fine.
This was quite recent then? Sometime within the last 29 years. 
