Modern engines

How long do they last these days , is 76,000 on a 1.0 focus a lot , is it likely to go bang soon , I was going to change to a lower mileage one , but this 65 plate was 6 k & and now they want £11,12 , 13 k for a 17 plate .
It seems to run fine , but I said that with my primera gt & it snapped the cam chain wrecking the engine at 70 k , so don’t want to fork out 12 k for another car but don’t want another wrecked engine

dozy:
How long do they last these days , is 76,000 on a 1.0 focus a lot , is it likely to go bang soon , I was going to change to a lower mileage one , but this 65 plate was 6 k & and now they want £11,12 , 13 k for a 17 plate .
It seems to run fine , but I said that with my primera gt & it snapped the cam chain wrecking the engine at 70 k , so don’t want to fork out 12 k for another car but don’t want another wrecked engine

I’ve had plenty of cars that are 100k plus. In fact all my cars bar two were on 100k+ when I bought them.

If the engine has got a timing belt, then it will have a service schedule for it. Usually 5years or 50k/60k miles or something like that. If I have a diesel I change the oil + filter every 10k miles, and if it’s a petrol then every 7k miles. Treat your car to the premium fuel once in a while. But generally stick to the manufacturers service schedule, and there’s no reason why an engine won’t make it to 150k+

70k miles on a modern engine is nothing if it’s maintained properly. Most likely an ancillary will kill the engine before the engine actually gives up.

However, Ive never owned a Ford. It was Jap stuff when I had no money and needed something dependable. Then blew a lot of money on German stuff, and now back to Jap stuff.

Cars are now silly money for anything new ish. So just buy a good car that’s a bit older for better value for money. My car cost me £1600, is 12 years old on 134k miles. Has a reverse camera and Bluetooth phone connection etc so it does the job just fine. It’s a 2.0 diesel.

My previous car was a £800 1.0 Toyota Aygo. I used to commute 55miles a day in that no problem. Only had it a short while. That was on 88k and I put 2k miles on it in 5 weeks and then sold it.

1.0 are fine, but wouldn’t be my first choice.

I have a 1.7 diesel astra done 170k and counting never had an issue.
Long as you look after your car these day can easily.last 100k plus

Ford 1.0 Ecoboost engine? Cambelt change at 150k. Seems it is a belt rather than chain, but it runs in oil.
Keep oil changes up to date, check coolant regularly, should be no problems for a few years yet.
There are always unforeseen glitches, but why sell a known good un to risk buying someone elses lemon?

The 1 litre is prone to coolant issues, something to do with the original ‘degas’ pipe which should be taken off and replaced with an updated version, coolant loss due to this can render an engine scrap in a remarkably short time if you don’t notice the sudden temp rise and fail to stop immediately.
Check on more specialised forums so you know what you should be looking for, and hopefully not finding, there was some sort of recall for this but no telling if all affected vehicles were done.

Not sure on your car if its direct injection, worth investigating and see if its one and if it suffers from the build up of carbon on the inlet valves and ports, as some PSA Di engines are prone to, not sure if you can do anything to help prevent the build up or whether some early intervention re correct cleaning off of any such build ups is worth performing.

If you want any vehicle to last give the maker’s idea of servicing a good ignoring, these long life or extended service intervals are only there to make the initial 3 years (they don’t care after warranty expires) look like cheap to maintain to attract the repeat sale lease/business/pcp(private rental) etc customers.
Change the oil every year even if you only cover 2000 miles, easy peasy DIY i doubt that would cost you more than £35 inc genuine filter, change the coolant every 3 or so years, they’ll probably say the gearbox is sealed for life, ■■■■■■■■, change the oil in that at least once in the life of the car preferably every 40k, maintain the brakes correctly (squirting brake cleaner in the general direction of the brakes as dealer workshops do is not brake servicing) and keep the undersides free from salt and muck and you can make cars last a hell of a long time.
If the car has a turbo allow it to warm up before asking it to perform and let it warn down again before shutting down, just as any professional driver would do with their truck :open_mouth: and drive with mechanical sympathy.

Agree with Muddy K, wouldn’t bother with anything other than Japanese, not Nissan though, preferably Toyota group and preferably made in Japan.

Ford charge £4000 for a NEW engine.
forums.overclockers.co.uk/threa … .18932209/
So even if it did go bang, it`s cheaper than paying £6k to get a newer car. A newish second hand engine from a crash, if needed is gonna be a lot less.

Get a jap car and service it every year/thread finished

If u want reliability

Service regular,timing belt change at the time its recommended, and drive properly and not like the worlds coming to an end before you have had your Friday night steak dinner :laughing: :laughing: a car should last for a good 120k

lolipop:
Service regular,timing belt change at the time its recommended, and drive properly and not like the worlds coming to an end before you have had your Friday night steak dinner :laughing: :laughing: a car should last for a good 120k

I’m @ 200k bud :]

I ran a Peugeot Partner van withthe 1.9 diesel with over 300,000 miles on the clock. I scrapped it last year because it need another rear subframe and more bodywork welding.

There are many variables which will dictate how long an engine will last, type of use, service history, driving style etc. Some don’t even get out of 1st year warranty. Manufacturers will quote a Time Between Overhauls figure which is based upon the percentage of engines manufactured which will reach a certain mileage.

Retail 2nd hand value is only one aspect to consider, there is also value to yourself, the devil you know and what and how much has been spent recently on replacements to take into account.

I had an S reg Nissan Micra for 8 years between 2009-2017, ran it up to 125k, and never once did I have a mechanical issue with it. The car rotted away while the engine was still perfect. It never lost a drop of oil or coolant in all that time. I did service it every 12 months though, and would clock up about 6k miles in between.

Thanks all , it’s got a fsh with Ford , so will run it & see , as for Japanese I’ve only had various nissans ( when they were meant to be bullit proof ) & had more trouble with them than the fords / Vauxhall / Peugeot we’ve had , I guess like most cars , some are lucky some aren’t

As many others have already alluded to regular servicing is the key to engine long life, I’ve got a 20 year old VW Polo 1.4 TDI with 163,000 miles on it, an 18 year old Volvo S60 D5 with 167,000 miles on it and both have been serviced every year and well looked after, neither use any oil or coolant between services as is the case with the 21 year old Merc CLK and 14 year old SLK I also own both of which are low mileage cars and will probably see me out!

I have a 1998 Merc C230 Kompressor - the only time I have to put oil in is at Oil Change time, same goes for every other fluid except windscreen washer fluid

Just read your o/p doze, not the replies (cba) , so if it’s been said apologies.

A good opportunity to boast here (which I invariably do about my kids : :blush: ), but my eldest lad is a Ford ‘mastertech’ and service manager at a Ford dealership (done much better than I did with my life btw, but that’s another story).he has a certificate which puts him in the top 20 Ford specialists in the country. :sunglasses:
His response was …‘‘If it is serviced regularly …and properly’’ :bulb: , and he’s assuming it’s a ‘EcoBoost’ wet belt ( nah me either :neutral_face: ) ‘‘and the timing belt is changed according to Ford guideline and recommendations, ie every 10 year from new or 150000 miles whichever comes first, it should go on forever’’ …not literally btw.so don’t sue him/me. :smiley:
A Ford agent will charge you a good day’s labour for a timing belt change whatever their varying labour rate per hour is.
Hope that’s of some use.

robroy:
Just read your o/p doze, not the replies (cba) , so if it’s been said apologies.

A good opportunity to boast here (which I invariably do about my kids : :blush: ), but my eldest lad is a Ford ‘mastertech’ and service manager at a Ford dealership (done much better than I did with my life btw, but that’s another story).he has a certificate which puts him in the top 20 Ford specialists in the country. :sunglasses:
His response was …‘‘If it is serviced regularly …and properly’’ :bulb: , and he’s assuming it’s a ‘EcoBoost’ wet belt ( nah me either :neutral_face: ) ‘‘and the timing belt is changed according to Ford guideline and recommendations, ie every 10 year from new or 150000 miles whichever comes first, it should go on forever’’ …not literally btw.so don’t sue him/me. :smiley:
A Ford agent will charge you a good day’s labour for a timing belt change whatever their varying labour rate per hour is.
Hope that’s of some use.

Yes a EcoBoost rob , only need it for a year ish as going back to 1 car obviously when me / mrs pack up work , so focus / mrs fiesta will go & just get a new focus / kuga , read about prices for new cam belt on this engine , but car will be long gone by the time it needs renewing
Always did my own mechanics on cortinas/ capris ( changing engines / gearboxes/ axles etc ) when younger but I’m too old for lying around in the cold now so just pay someone to do it , and to be honest cars are normally changed along time before they get to 70k

Ecoboost cambelt runs in oil. If the engine hasn’t been run on genuine Ford oil the belt starts to degrade and the rubbish ends up in the sump and blocks the oil pick up. Not cheap but ideally get the belt changed and at the same time have the sump removed and the oil pick up cleaned. 150k miles is a long time for a belt change, but not a problem because most Ecoboosts are dead by 100k.

Wildy:
Ecoboost cambelt runs in oil. If the engine hasn’t been run on genuine Ford oil the belt starts to degrade and the rubbish ends up in the sump and blocks the oil pick up. Not cheap but ideally get the belt changed and at the same time have the sump removed and the oil pick up cleaned. 150k miles is a long time for a belt change, but not a problem because most Ecoboosts are dead by 100k.

All services done by Ford so I’d hope it was genuine Ford oil used , but yes 150 k , 10 yrs does sound a long time before renewal, I’ve had a cam chain snap & cam belt ( though cam belt was just a case of new one as nothing hit on 2.0 cortina ( long time ago so think it was 2.0 ) , so you’re always a bit weary

I did no…

Research whatsoever about the Ecoboost 1.0 three cylinder engine. I just knew that it would turn into an old rusty toolbox that you find at the end of your dad’s garage (with or without Ford servicing it regularly).

i just replaced my 59 plate toyota IQ3 , 1.33 engine 6speed box , 138000 miles , had it from 4000 miles and 1 year old , apart from servicing and tyres etc cost , that was it , only problem i ever had was a failure on plastic air con bulkhead bracket , which didn’t stop it anyway , 92 miles a day 4 days a week on the A14 and M6 . and i ran that alongside a 52 plate toyota rav4 petrol , 136000 miles and all it had was an exhaaust and 4 sensors , in 10 years, another one i had from 12 months old , got a toyota hybrid now , and a ssangyong .
tony