Dunky123:
One other thing. Do not try and drive into someone’s mono block driveway.
They are not designed for the weight of your vehicle.
Many companies will give you a disclaimer book for the customer to sign in case something goes wrong. They have no legal standing and if you do cause harm to someone else’s property, it’s your fault as you should have known better.
Actually that’s two things , oops
Wise words, agree 100%
I currently work for an independent builders merchant . I was a new pass in the summer and this is my first driving job. Absolutely love it . Every day different. Different site different load . Plenty to think about .
Customers always think you have got a 50ft reach crane. But once educated are generally understanding.
Always look up when you get to site and see what’s around .
Take your time and don’t be rushed by other impatient motorists . ( there will be plenty)
If you like problem solving as well as driving you will love it .
Like others have said make sure leg pads down anywhere but roads .not worth risk of breaking through ground
Pallet forks in use with sling on which sometimes is better sometimes not .
Bongobus11:
Thanks all - I was wondering about the outriggers - do both have to come out example block road for a kerbside deliverySent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Officially it should be fully out, fully down which will give you the maximum capabilities of the crane assuming on firm and level ground. In practice the kerbside fully out, fully down with a pad under and road side down taking some weight so that any swing of the load does not rock the vehicle. Modern cranes will downrate and shut down if they are not balanced and if legs are not fully extended they will only allow you to operate within it’s new parameters. Although don’t completely trust that.
8wheels:
Bongobus11:
Thanks all - I was wondering about the outriggers - do both have to come out example block road for a kerbside deliverySent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Officially it should be fully out, fully down which will give you the maximum capabilities of the crane assuming on firm and level ground. In practice the kerbside fully out, fully down with a pad under and road side down taking some weight so that any swing of the load does not rock the vehicle. Modern cranes will downrate and shut down if they are not balanced and if legs are not fully extended they will only allow you to operate within it’s new parameters. Although don’t completely trust that.
Not fully down that’s for mobile cranes ,taking weight is a better description.
Good point Dan, that was what I meant.
It’s worth noting that even good Allmi training schools only offer hook, brick grab and clam-shell, but not the forks attachment.
Zac_A:
It’s worth noting that even good Allmi training schools only offer hook, brick grab and clam-shell, but not the forks attachment.
A chocolate cake is good.
One with a cherry on top is better.
Zac_A:
It’s worth noting that even good Allmi training schools only offer hook, brick grab and clam-shell, but not the forks attachment.
Presumably because it is one of a number of items that could be used via the hook and is not directly controlled by the operation of the crane controls.
I do not have a the category for hydraulic brick clamp, but I have a manual brick grab available as used by excavators. It is a hook attachment and has no direct control from the crane, it releases the catches when it rests on top of a pack of blocks and then has a concertina mechanism that extends grabbing the pack. It then locks open when you place the pack down. It is a very clever device and I still can’t really understand how it works despite having few moving bits.
I can use a similar sounding device for unloading concrete man hole rings.
Looks a bit like a tripod and works by clamping the outside and inside of the ring, I was unsure when first using it but ok now.
There’s a coupled videos on YouTube with excavators using them.
It is listed as a special attachment on my certificate but the training consisted of moving a couple of rings about and the examiner bloke seemed happy enough
When i used to to builders merchants deliveries at this time of year i uesd to keep some spare wood offcuts or blocks that you find on sites. When putting legs down in soft or dirty ground use them instead of your pads.
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ajc263:
When i used to to builders merchants deliveries at this time of year i uesd to keep some spare wood offcuts or blocks that you find on sites. When putting legs down in soft or dirty ground use them instead of your pads.Sent from my SM-A705FN using Tapatalk
Should you put them underneath your pads? (Still use your pads) Otherwise are you putting yourself at risk that you’re ignoring your training?
Each situation is different and only over time as your experience grows can you make the decision as to the best way to do it. For me i was doing a lot of deliverys in rural areas where the only hard standing was where the truck wheels were and I had to put the legs out onto softer ground, hence my tip about spare wood as after a few fishing expeditions for pads i can up with some other ways of making it work.
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I’ve had to use the crane and a drop chain around the rope handle on the odd occasion to retrieve a pad where it has been compressed deep into the mud!
8wheels:
I’ve had to use the crane and a drop chain around the rope handle on the odd occasion to retrieve a pad where it has been compressed deep into the mud!
Prise it out with a spade, less faff
I generally try and loop the rope for the handle of the pad around the foot of the crane.
The bits of wood that scaffolders use for the feet of their scaffolding make good under pad packing.
I paid for a hiab course in the hope of making myself more employable but, starting too wish I had saved the money.
Or blown it on prossies and booze.
No one wants an inexperienced operator, trying too get a foot on the ladder is proving far more difficult than I imagined. I would like to stop working nights at some point.
Most of the big merchants will take on drivers and train them on the crane, so I would imagine they would be happy taking you on with a certificate already.
Failing that sign on with an agency( I know) the one we use , their crane drivers are booked out solid.
Be warned , no two of the big merchant branches are the same, ask two drivers from the same company that work for different branches and they’ll give you different views of their work.
I did more than a few years on the HIAB & enjoyed almost every minute.
By far the best tip I ever took onboard was to place a number plate with my name on in the cab window. Whether it’s a one off drop or a regular, difficult or easy, the job is made sooo MUCH better if they can relate to you & elevate you above the level of “Oi” or “driver”.
One more tips that springs to mind.
When using a remote crane if you are slinging the load yourself of otherwise moving around where you need your hands free for something else, clambering on the body or up a ladder etc and have the remote on a strap around your neck turn the remote off so you do not accidently move the crane by knocking the levers