And other good “practise” is to look for the obvious instead of relying on some crap confuser.
These pieces of crap can only “diagnose” anything that can send a signal.
Way too much “faith” put in this diagnostic ■■■■■■■■
Would rather trust a man with 20 years experience than some prick that thinks a computer can tell him all the answers.
These diagnostic “systems” can ■■■■■■■ a vehicle when there is bugger all wrong with it.
And its getting worse.
Do we really need to know that “emissions” are high or that air usage is “critical” ?
Its all bollox and none of it is needed.
But it makes a lot of [zb]s a lot of money.
Bking:
And other good “practise” is to look for the obvious instead of relying on some crap confuser.
These pieces of crap can only “diagnose” anything that can send a signal.
Way too much “faith” put in this diagnostic [zb]
Would rather trust a man with 20 years experience than some prick that thinks a computer can tell him all the answers.
These diagnostic “systems” can ■■■■■■■ a vehicle when there is bugger all wrong with it.
And its getting worse.
Do we really need to know that “emissions” are high or that air usage is “critical” ?
Its all bollox and none of it is needed.
But it makes a lot of [zb]s a lot of money.
Like you post has no doubt confused the op no end
update - changed the ecu bobbins, the old ones were worn but not stupid. The can-bus connector was full of dirt as the cover is broken.
Cleaned everything and re-assembled. Pulled the fuel pipe off the tank and no signs of dirt but will drain at the weekend and bore scope.
Pumped the primer a couple of dozen times it and started first turn of the key 
ps
Now i know the ECU is diesel cooled
Ive got some LF55s if it is a similar water separator filter to these, I`ve had problems with dirt in the filter head, as some one has said above take the elbow out where the fuel comes in and check there, some have a gauze filter in there, also check the flow / blocked filter sensor, held in the top of the filter head with 2 allen screws. Take the sensor out and the are 2 long metal contacts running parallel which can trap dirt between them.
Been through the fuel lines and clear, pumped the air out with the hand primer and tried to start.
Still the same. Engine will not pickup.
I have put the video on utube
Daf lf 45 euro3 starting issue.
If you watch the abs warning dissapears on the second attempt, could there be a wiring issue?
If you watch the video the oil light is flashing on.
When the codes were being read the oil pressure came up whilst cranking so the light should not be flickering whilst the engine is running. Anyone ever had cabling issues on an LF ?
Put it this way. If a DAF had a flat tyre I wouldn’t rule out it being a wiring loom issue.
A “mechanic” can get you back on the road
A “technician” can get you back on a wrecker.
Cant fix it you need a new one
The confuser says so.
Bking:
A “mechanic” can get you back on the road
A “technician” can get you back on a wrecker.
Cant fix it you need a new one
The confuser says so.
So which one are you as you definetely are not a Mechanic or Technician …Though to be fair you do confuse the hell out of people with your lack of the basics ,never mind anything technical…I always wondered if you actually have any sort of training /qualifications ,but you have answered that many a time ,with your riidiculous comments
How are you on turbos lol or gearboxes with oil pumps ■■? 
Made a fool of yourself on they threads to name but 2
Suggest you read up about turbo “runaways” my friend might just enlighten you.
You see things are just not quite as straight forward as you think they are.
And as for gearboxes with oil pumps just please forward me one tech diagram with one in situ.
I know DAF “technicians” know it all.
One thing I forgot to add now are you listening?
You get a vacuum cleaner and block the inlet and what happens?
The motor increases to silly speeds because you have taken away its load.
It has no air to move and if left in this state it would explode.
Now think of a turbo with no load.This thing,with load ,rotates at 90 to 100 thousand RPM.
Now imagine this “machine” with no load.
It turns into a jet engine and spins at 2 or 3 times its rated load.
It actually heats the air to such a high temperature the oxygen start to burn the top of the pistons.
Dont believe me look at the top of the cylinders after a “runaway”
Yawn ,your boring me now ,so run along little boy …Only respond when you have something intelligent /interesting to say
Bking:
Suggest you read up about turbo “runaways” my friend might just enlighten you.
You see things are just not quite as straight forward as you think they are.
And as for gearboxes with oil pumps just please forward me one tech diagram with one in situ.
I know DAF “technicians” know it all.
So just to confirm you think all gearboxes rely on splash lube? or have I read that wrong?
update - making some progress. The Lf now will not rev above 1500rpm and has no power. Guessing it was fuel related and have been through the fuel system time after time i changed the fuel pressure valve on the pump. i purchased bosch part not the daf part as it was 1/3 of the price.
This has fixed the power and starting problem .
Unfortunately this week the orange engine warning light is permanently on, before and after the engine is started so off to get the codes read again.
Is it insured.
If what you have changed is actually a suction control valve on the pump, then the engine management light will remain on until the ECU is programed to recognise the new valve.
Sounds like the M-Prop valve that was changed ,It is plug and play CAV…If he has a constant warning light without the engine running that should be a simple fix as it is deffo electrical ,so loom or sensor