LGV TRAINING TIPS [Reworked 01/02/2022] (Read only)

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Here are a couple of fairly common 8-speed gearbox types, with pics and a deliberately non-technical introductory explanation.

This post is designed to remove the fears associated with driving with an 8-speed LGV gearbox for the first time.
With good tuition and some practice, you’ll find that it will quite quickly become as familiar as any other gearbox that you already know.
GOOD LUCK. :wink:

First up is: the “slap-over” gearbox:

I’d suggest that it’s best to think of these two lots of four gears as being arranged “side by side.”
In the picture, the “C” is for Crawler, which is a gear that is even lower than first.

Operation.
Neutral is much wider in a left and right sense than a normal gearbox. To save getting all those gears mixed-up, there’s a springy bit about half way across the neutral. To start off, make sure that the gearstick is in the left hand side of the gearbox, then use gears 1 - 4, which will get you to 15-20ish mph. After you’ve used 4th gear, go into neutral, then pull the gearstick to the right, overcoming the springy bit, whilst staying in neutral. Then you’ll hear a “clunk,” then you push the gearstick forwards into 5th and carry on as you’d expect.

When changing down through the gears, come down as far as 5th, then come back into neutral, then push the gearstick to the left, overcoming the springy bit, then use the left side of the gearbox beginning with 4th to continue slowing down.

When in neutral, the gearstick rests towards the springy bit.
In the 1 to 4 gear section it rests to the right.
In the 5 to 8 gear section it rests to the left.

Next up is the “four over four” gearbox.

I’d suggest that it’s best to think of these two lots of four gears as being arranged “four over four.”

Operation.
To start off, make sure that the switch on the front of the gearstick is down:

Use gears 1 - 4, all with the switch “down,” which takes you to 15-20ish mph.

Then, whilst in 4th gear move the switch to the up position like this:

Next, move the gearstick into neutral, you’ll then hear a “clunk,” which means that 1st gear has now become 5th gear, so carry on up to 8th as you’d expect. The “clunk” means that you’re now in the “top half” of the gearbox. Now you can see why the gear numbers on the top of the gearstick are not arranged like the “slap-over” gearbox.

When changing down through the gears, come down as far as 5th, then whilst in 5th, move the switch to the down position, then move the gearstick into neutral (wait a moment for the “clunk”) and you’ll find that you’ve “switched” into the “bottom half” of the gearbox. (8th has now become 4th etc.)

In practice, with this type of gearbox, you might be in 7th and need to stop the vehicle. That’s fine, just stop and apply the handbrake. Then move the gearstick switch to the down position before going into neutral, then you’ll be in the right “range” to start off again. Experienced drivers sometimes forget to do this- myself included :blush: Tip: don’t change the range and go for a gear too fast, because you might miss the gear altogether due to some range changers being slower than others. :wink:

Another method of changing the gears working up or down the gearbox is called the ‘skip,’ or ‘block’ change. This can be accomplished using either type of range-change gearbox and the DSA examiners will be looking for test candidates to use this method where safe and appropriate to road conditions. One example of ‘skip’ or ‘block’ changing would be to set off in second gear, and changing from second straight to fourth gear ‘skipping’ third gear. Clearly, this wouldn’t always be possible if an up-hill start is required. However, where a downhill start is required, you will be expected to use ‘skip’ changing, dut to it being appropriate to do so.

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From an Instructors viewpoint…

Without doubt introducing the upgraded vehicle requirements for driving tests has made it harder to pass the test.

Of course some individuals can handle a range change with only a few wise words and never make it look hard work. However, most other people can take 2 or 3 days to get used to it.
This all costs money and generally there are now far less short courses than there used to be.
The pass rate hasn’t changed much but its more expensive now.

Common mistakes/failures include:

Forgetting to select low range when setting off and thus trying to move away in either 7th or 8th and possibly holding up traffic.
Whenever you stop choose low range when you move the lever to neutral.

Completely getting in a muddle at seemingly random times, usually by forgetting where any gears are and what gear is required.
This can happen because something has leaped out the tarmac and put off the poor novice.

Hopefully before the test, new drivers get out of this annoying habit, but the stress of the test can let it rear its ugly head again!

Trying to use all the gears to slow down is not seen as the modern technique, failing to come down the gears 8-6-5-4 or similar may cause test minors or a serious.
Gears are for going and brakes (not gears) are for slowing!

Don’t bother trying to change to 5th gear on a small roundabout unless your very good as you will find yourself trying to steer with one hand on the wheel.

Setting off in high range on the hill start up or down exercise is another favourite trainee error.

There are other hints and tips with this type of gearbox, but I’m leaving these to your instructor to avoid any possible confusion.
They’d be difficult and lengthy to write anyway. :wink:
It is also worth mentioning that this post is designed to address the driving of an unladen LGV under tuition/driving test conditions.

We hope this is helpful and calms any initial fears you might have.

Post acknowledgements for contributed material go to dieseldave, Tockwith Training, Krankee & ROG.

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