Are they any good, anyone use one seen them for sale for around 50 quid .
Yes …but you need to know by how much it multiplys …All manucturers use them as for example hub torques exceed a torque wrench …
All torque multipliers have the same drawbacks unless they are ones designed for a specific application. You need to be able to anchor the reaction bar against something safely, which is not always possible. You need room to rotate the input shaft (torque wrench) through three or four times the angle that the output turns. And unless the nut is quite deep then the socket will try to tear off as it is turned.
Having said that the Sealey type which just has a cranking handle and a multiplication of 65 to 1 is very good at undoing wheelnuts. You do need to take care on the front axle that the reaction arm does not slip off however. You also need to be aware that it is such a large step up in torque I have sheared the cone off the old fashioned 7/8" bsf nuts which only have an 11/16" bsf hexagon becasue the hole in the wheel was oval. Also to annulus looks a bit flimsy, as if it could explode if too much force is applied.
A good torque multiplier will cost you at least 500 quid.
Anything less than that will be garbage,
The steel used to make the reaction bar will cost at least 300 notes then you got the cost of a good machined(not powder steel) reduction gear.
Quality engineering does not come cheap.But it will last a lifetime and never fail.
A piece of quality engineering is a joy forever.
And getting very rare.
He’s talking about the cheap ones to get wheelnuts off I would think not a Norbar one for doing hubnuts.
Sorry as own acc driver has put torque multiplier for removing wheel nuts should of explained it a bit better ,need something for getting them off got no electric or compressor and last time I used a wheel brace and bar to get em off it split the brace in 2 and I landed on my backside thankfully no one was watching !
They perfectly alright for occasional use and work quite effectively.
Get an inch drive air gun and get an adapter made up to plug in red airline on unit, I used to carry one with me, set engine on about 1000 revs and compressor should keep up, it does on my fh12
Moose:
Get an inch drive air gun and get an adapter made up to plug in red airline on unit, I used to carry one with me, set engine on about 1000 revs and compressor should keep up, it does on my fh12
Yes a good inch wheel gun ■■■■■ at least 150 Cu ft per minute. Tell me some poxy truck compressor that can even produce half that and I will show my ■■■ in Burtons window.
To crack them you would be better off with a Facom dynapact - that is a stored energy impact driver
Toddy2:
To crack them you would be better off with a Facom dynapact - that is a stored energy impact driver
Another load of ■■■■■■■■.
I do have one of them and it does get occasional use, mainly for loosening transmission flange nuts or lining up the split pin hole, if I don’t have air available. Whether it would cope with some of the tighter modern flanges which go up to stupid + 90 degrees I dunno. What it does do very well indeed is to shake the the pivot pin out of my ancient knuckle bar.
my mate now uses his on the slewing ring on 360 excavators, after the H&S bloke bollocked him for using a scaffold pole on a T bar
Toddy2:
To crack them you would be better off with a Facom dynapact - that is a stored energy impact driver
Very expensive relative to the £50 things the OP means. I never bought one in the past as my service vans always had air.
Own Account Driver:
Toddy2:
To crack them you would be better off with a Facom dynapact - that is a stored energy impact driverVery expensive relative to the £50 things the OP means. I never bought one in the past as my service vans always had air.
They are expensive - but good tools are - I found mine as new old stock on ebay 
Bking:
Toddy2:
To crack them you would be better off with a Facom dynapact - that is a stored energy impact driverAnother load of [zb].
At £1350.93 of course they’re crap !! 