Iveco tech guys needed!

Hi all.

Any Iveco tech people on here that may be able to help?
We have a 75e17 06 plate that lost power Dec 18th last year. symptoms are engine ticks over at 1700 revs. EDC light on dash.
Iveco attend and plugs in Texa and reports Accelerator pedal fault. They changed it and off he went. £450
Then after Christmas…Tuesday 6th Jan, same fault on M4. sudden lose of power, EDC light etc. Truck drives, but only in limp mode at 15MPH etc. Iveco attend and say the plug from accelerator had come loose. Off he goes again. £190

No every week the same thing happens. All fine 1 day. breaks down after 5 miles the next! Totally unreliable.
About to trade in, but thought of you guys as last resort.
As reference…Also checked all the multi pin plugs behind dash and bulkhead and replaced any with green corrosion etc. The new Pedal seems fine on Texa.
We have also got the truck back from Leeds on cruise control when it stopped. (little trick I learnt years ago by luck). So not engine or turbo ?
But Been told Crank sensor is a common issue on trucks ■■?
Also, just before it happens when driving, the truck starts to go really well with lots more power, but then a load diesel knock.! Timing issue or pump ?

Let me know.
many thanks.

When it happens, are you in gear but stopped, then when you go to drive it clunks down into neutral and the dashboard comes up like a Christmas tree?

Hi.

No, it can happen at any speed. normally 56 mph on a motorway. But sometimes driving around town. ?

I would get the injectors looked at.

Ok. Will do.

It’s not what seems to happening to mine then but I have a few faults coming up with mine.

One being the rear worn brake fault. (This alarm went off 127 times…no really I kept a tally just on Tuesday) They have been checked twice and the brake pads are brand new.

From what I have been told regarding the faults ECD65, ECM35, brake worn …it’s one big wiring issue that it seems to have.

1.do you have the auto box or manual?
2. when the fault happens so you get any other warnings such as vcm and edc and gearboxe
3. if it happens again (and you can) disconnect the batterys for a few mins.
have had a spate of accelerator pedals getting wet internally and causing similar faults. when the new pedal was fitted it should have been sealed with silicone/equivalent.
timing wise mechanicaly it should never change as only 2 gears. yes sensors do go down but then it’ll run on the other one. were you able to get any fault codes?
diesel knock normally means the “mprop” is faulty allowing the pump to max out. circa 1500bar. 3 torx screws to change it. check with daf about price as its the same part

hi Zimbowreker.

Its a 5 speed manual. 06 plate.
The only warning we get is a ‘Bing’ sound, Red triangle and EDC appears.
It clears normally just by turning the ignition off and back on. This Seems to reset it self.
But at its worst, as soon as you press the accelerator, it goes back into Limp mode and ticks over at 1700 revs. Then other days it will clear the fault for the day.
But strange, the 1 day it did it in the yard, when you pressed the accelerator to the floor, the revs went back to tick over ■■ Then release the pedal again and the revs went back up.
No other warnings on the Texa.
The problem is that every time Iveco think its fixed, it works for a day-week, and then boom!. not fixed, but £300 out of pocket…
I wish we had 2 Iveco’s to swop the parts over until found. Think its the only way at the moment to find the fault.
Also, what is a Mprop?

sounds similar to a problem ive got on mine looses the pedal until revs drop to idlefor a few seconds but not the cruise control diagostics pointed to the throttle switch changed it twice no joys changed brake peddle switch no joys had loom checked no joys auto elec said its the pump or pump ecu but wouldnt say which expensive and now rare found one for sale but cant understand why its them if it picks up on the cruise i messed around with it myself and its been ok for a while but now started doing it again have you checked the loom ,the loom contacts into the ecu have a look in your tank for anything that may block the pick up pipe you can do all them yourself annoying having an intermitant fault

Seriously I would always get an injector leak off test done before going down too many other paths with these types of faults that appear to be some sort of fueling issue.

I have over the years seen so many diesel engined vehicles where the owner has thrown a whole bucket of parts like umpteen different sensors, fuel filters, fuel pumps and the rest at an engine with these sorts of symptons and it turned out to be an injector problem.

They can often manifest themselves as being a pedal issue as when you lift off the pedal that’s when the fuel leaks back, the ecu detects it and either throws it into limp or shuts down. Then switching it off and on seems to work as it clears the fault until the next time.

hi Guys.

Lee, that’s exactly what ours is doing. But Zimbowreker may have been barking up the right tree? M prop Valve…
Just had a chat with a diesel engine/pump/injector guy my old man has known for years.
As O.A D. has just put, he agreed these injectors are always playing up and faults are common as muck. But explained what happens in the injector to cause a ECU fault.
But believes the cruise control part of the story proves that the injectors are unlikely to be the whole story on this occasion.

BUT…when I mention the diesel Knock, he instantly knew the EDC fault code that appears and explained that this would allow over fuelling etc and a brief surge of power.
Then the EDC would kick in. :frowning:
But he did warn it wouldn’t always be able to reset itself by turning off the ignition and would eventually go straight into limp mode more often…
(I’m guessing this valve is more mechanical than electronic and may stick?)

At this stage I hadn’t told him that this has already happened a few times to ours in the yard. So maybe a lucky guess?

So…for approx. £90, I’m going to try this as a final straw.

I will of course let you know…either way :smiley: or :angry:

leak off test would be a good start. would show if injectors are playing about. 80ml over a minute. can do the test youreself if you have a bit of pipe to go in the fitting.
you can also check the preassure release valve. there should either be nothing at all coming out or gushing out like no tomorrow. have the vehicle at normal temp when doing these checks.
delivery tubes inside the head come loose and can cause leakage. 19/17mm spanner to take the injector pipes of . There will be a colar nut in the head 22mm spanner. these shiuld be done up to 50nm. if any are loose youll find out when you take the pipes off. most garages should be able to help with these checks as they dont need a computer or any special tools.

Check loom to injector dump solenoids.
Wiring goes brittle with age and as it carries 400 volts any rise in resistance will cause a “limp” signal to be sent to the ecu to protect the engine.

hi
don’t spend any more money on parts till you have checked through the wiring loom!. u front grille plastic cover with trunking looms
going down to bumper area open up trunking < note how thin wiring is> pay attention to bends etc. I will be very surprised if you do not find and bad wires.
ps we have just fitted a full loom to one of our fleet.

good luck Jon

So what was the out come of this vehicle problem?

You paid 1100 + Vat for new loom and your problems were solved? or you were back to square one with the problem?

No feedback after you solved the problem? Thats kind of useful to others with similar problem?