Grease is the word

I have to split couple, ( trailor break always on ) every time I back under before coupling suzi’s, It pushes grease from the 5th wheel onto the catwalk, pain in the …e. Some say professional companies would sack you for sliding under ! So what is the correct procedure. I have watched hundreds do it without lowering suspension.

If you don’t have to lower the suspension to prevent this the trailer has been dropped too high.

Lower suspension, reverse up till the whole 5th wheel is under the rubbing plate and slightly short of the pin, get out and and check where you are, lift suspension till legs clear then reverse onto the king pin.

Job done.

edit…by the way i always open the drivers door to enable better vision for coupling and manoeuvering anyway, you can keep an eye on such things better…theres another good reason for doing this and its for the safety of others at the back, re-reflected sound.

get your fifth wheel close to the trailer, then drop the suspension a bit.
if you can’t get it low enough then drop the air out of the trailer, it should raise the front of the trailer.

go in low then lift…that`s how i was taught

commonrail:
go in low then lift…that`s how i was taught

did she like it?

Snarley:
I have to split couple, ( trailor break always on ) every time I back under before coupling suzi’s, It pushes grease from the 5th wheel onto the catwalk, pain in the …e. Some say professional companies would sack you for sliding under ! So what is the correct procedure. I have watched hundreds do it without lowering suspension.

I’m sure you have, but why would you want to copy someone who can’t be bothered to do the job right

1. Reverse under the trailer with the unit suspension down and stop well before reaching the pin
2. Check trailer brake
3. Connect air and electrics
4. Raise the unit suspension so the trailer legs are just clear of the ground
5. Reverse slowly until the fifth wheel locking mechanism clicks locked (clicks not bangs )
6. Perform tug test
7. Check fifth wheel has locked around pin if in any doubt and do handle pull test
8. Attach dog clip if required
9. Release trailer brake and wind trailer legs up
10. Complete trailer vehicle check

Split coupling is safe if done right but you should always take care and think about what you’re doing otherwise it can become a dangerous way of coupling.

Snarley:
I have to split couple, ( trailor break always on ) every time I back under before coupling suzi’s, It pushes grease from the 5th wheel onto the catwalk, pain in the …e. Some say professional companies would sack you for sliding under ! So what is the correct procedure. I have watched hundreds of arsewipes do it without lowering suspension.

FTFY!

44 Tonne Ton:

Snarley:
I have to split couple, ( trailor break always on ) every time I back under before coupling suzi’s, It pushes grease from the 5th wheel onto the catwalk, pain in the …e. Some say professional companies would sack you for sliding under ! So what is the correct procedure. I have watched hundreds of arsewipes do it without lowering suspension.

FTFY!

When split coupling I always worry that if it hasn’t locked in I will rip the suzies out on the tug test

starfighter:
When split coupling I always worry that if it hasn’t locked in I will rip the suzies out on the tug test

Bloody hell, you would have to tug it off of the trailer by well over a car’s length to get suzies to rip out.

starfighter:
When split coupling I always worry that if it hasn’t locked in I will rip the suzies out on the tug test

Listen for that loud click! Don’t welly it for the tug test. Jobs a good 'un! You could always get out and check before doing the tug test.

starfighter:
When split coupling I always worry that if it hasn’t locked in I will rip the suzies out on the tug test

I’d be more worried about smashing the trailer onto the floor before you do that

We was taught during training and for the test to always inspect the trailer before coupling to it as the minute you couple to it, it becomes your responsibility.

1. Reverse upto Trailer. Get out check Trailer break ‘ON’
2. Drop suspension, back under until 5th wheel under trailer. Then raise suspension and back under until it connects.
3. Tug Test.
4. Get out, Dog Clip, Wind legs up. Trailer Break off and hit shunt valve.
5. Back in truck pull forward and put bend in truck and trailer to expose cat walk.
6. Back out and connect suzies and finish of checks.

DHL method. Split coupling is frowned apon big time

hit the shunt valve■■? half the dhl trailers in our yard have the shunt valve disabled!

^ this

bigjohn78:

1. Reverse upto Trailer. Get out check Trailer break ‘ON’
2. Drop suspension, back under until 5th wheel under trailer. Then raise suspension and back under until it connects.
3. Tug Test.
4. Get out, Dog Clip, Wind legs up. Trailer Break off and hit shunt valve.
5. Back in truck pull forward and put bend in truck and trailer to expose cat walk.
6. Back out and connect suzies and finish of checks.

DHL method. Split coupling is frowned apon big time

That one would work or

Backing under the trailer till the plate is within 6 inches of the pin helps too, then you lift the airbags

Harry Monk:

starfighter:
When split coupling I always worry that if it hasn’t locked in I will rip the suzies out on the tug test

Bloody hell, you would have to tug it off of the trailer by well over a car’s length to get suzies to rip out.

:D:D

You should drop the suspension every time you couple then raise it once the plate is under the trailer and before you skip the pin and ram the trailer in to the back of the cab to prevent bending the legs & damaging your mud guards as well as ensuring all of the weight is on the fifth wheel to get a clean engagement of the pin on the locking jaws, if you’re not lazy that is!