Just wondering if anyone has had anything similar/know of a solution…the gear change has steadily become more ‘notchy’ and difficult to get in gear. Seems better when warm. Fitted new gear linkage at the gearbox end, but no better. Only done about 100K miles and 4 years old. Any suggestions as to fixing it?
I know nothing about Scanias but on my Daf the slave was loosing air when pedal pressed down you couldn’t hear the leak over the engine but the pedal was very slightly heavier than normal and made the gears very slightly stiffer to select as the clutch was perhaps not clearing fully .
Investigating for clutch drag for whatever reason would be the obvious and cheapest start point.Where is the clutch biting point on engagement.Is that close to the floor position of the pedal ?.
You can also check it by holding the unsychronised reverse gear selection between neutral and engagement with the clutch disengaged and feel if there’s any movement of the gears against each other at that point which would show up any clutch drag and also show the exact biting point of the clutch on engagement.
Has it got the right oil in it and has it been changed? If it’s not been done in 4 years then it could be causing it to be as described
The 3 over 3 that I drove had a notchy 2nd, 5th and 8th, so all in the same place on the main box. I couldn’t get it without a crunch, fast, slow, double de clutching, the lot. I spoke to others about it and none of 'em reckoned much on the Scania box. Hope your fix ain’t too expensive.
Scania 3 over 3 are common for being notchy.
We had a unit that had a tricky 4th on the bottom left. It would usually not play ball when you were driving past people in a town whilst empty making a right racket. If it did start playing up, it’d never go in. Of course it was always OK when nobody else around to hear it!
Sometimes it was smooth as silk.
Worth investigating the rest of the linkage, we had a 3 over 3 that would baulk horribly when cold, improved a little once warm but, as above, you always struggled to get the same gear in both ranges, which makes sense.
It got pranged and another complete cab fitted, covered well over 800k at that point.
It was like a different motor afterwards, best Scania manual box i’ve ever used, gears slotted in a treat.
Things must go out of adjustment or parts of the linkage at the top end must wear, there was no reason otherwise for the huge improvement in gearchanging, cab fitted wasn’t new but barely used that too was a treat, didn’t shake your fillings out if you happened to run over a cats eye.
Juddian:
Worth investigating the rest of the linkage, we had a 3 over 3 that would baulk horribly when cold, improved a little once warm but, as above, you always struggled to get the same gear in both ranges, which makes sense.
It got pranged and another complete cab fitted, covered well over 800k at that point.
It was like a different motor afterwards, best Scania manual box i’ve ever used, gears slotted in a treat.
Things must go out of adjustment or parts of the linkage at the top end must wear, there was no reason otherwise for the huge improvement in gearchanging, cab fitted wasn’t new but barely used that too was a treat, didn’t shake your fillings out if you happened to run over a cats eye.
How much linkage did you get with the fresh cab? I’ve only done the UJ at the gearbox end as there was a bit of play in it and the others felt fine. By the way, it’s an 8 speed.
Night-and-day:
Has it got the right oil in it and has it been changed? If it’s not been done in 4 years then it could be causing it to be as described
Hi, not changed it yet, hope it’s got the right oil in as it was a new truck. Might be next thing to try after another look at the linkages. Thanks
ote:
Juddian:
How much linkage did you get with the fresh cab? I’ve only done the UJ at the gearbox end as there was a bit of play in it and the others felt fine. By the way, it’s an 8 speed.
I asked the question at the bodyshop who swapped the cabs over, said they replaced the whole linkage, much of it may have come with the nearly new (used) cab so can’t tell you which part were brand new from the parts desk.
Out of interest what year was the truck? As I believe the linkages changed types at some point as my old 56 reg was different to the new 17 one.
ote:
Out of interest what year was the truck? As I believe the linkages changed types at some point as my old 56 reg was different to the new 17 one.
I’m going to say 56 or 58 plate, entering or on its last year of lease with us so 4 to 5 years old, was a little surprised it wasn’t written off, must have been the handy at the time nearly new cab saved its bacon.
Mine is the GRS, 3 over 3 with splitter.
Not the nicest of things to use, but you get used to it. If I am changing a whole gear when the oil is cold, I can’t move the lever quickly enough to avoid a crunch, as the thick oil will be assisting the synchro to do their work. Once the oil has warmed up, it’s generally ok.
Old John:
Mine is the GRS, 3 over 3 with splitter.
Not the nicest of things to use, but you get used to it. If I am changing a whole gear when the oil is cold, I can’t move the lever quickly enough to avoid a crunch, as the thick oil will be assisting the synchro to do their work. Once the oil has warmed up, it’s generally ok.
I do a quarter mile in low range with my Eaton before attempting high range in a morning either that or wake the neighbour warming her up ,makes you wonder what sort of pain an auto box may suffer from a cold start though ?
Punchy Dan:
Old John:
Mine is the GRS, 3 over 3 with splitter.
Not the nicest of things to use, but you get used to it. If I am changing a whole gear when the oil is cold, I can’t move the lever quickly enough to avoid a crunch, as the thick oil will be assisting the synchro to do their work. Once the oil has warmed up, it’s generally ok.I do a quarter mile in low range with my Eaton before attempting high range in a morning either that or wake the neighbour warming her up ,makes you wonder what sort of pain an auto box may suffer from a cold start though ?
Have you got the 16sp synchro Dan?
On the auto shift boxes, I think some of them at least are constant mesh. I’m sure the I shift is.